Garland Park – Between Storms – Waterfall and Early Wildflowers

With just a few hours of clear skys Sunday afternoon between the latest series of the Pineapple Express, Mike took off on his bike and I took off on a hike.  Rumor had it that the waterfall at Garland was running after four years of drought. I wanted to make sure there was some truth to this rumor. 

Well I wasn’t alone.  By noon on Sunday the lower trails of Garland were streaming with hikers, mountain bikers, and dogs 

of all shapes and sizes jumping for joy to be out in the open.     

For the last four years I would cross the parking lot to the trail head at the Visitors Center by walking across the dry Carmel River bed.  Not today! Hallelujah – the temporary footbridge has been removed for the winter – Carmel River is flowing. This may also have had something to do with the removal of the San Clemente Dam last year. But whatever the cause the muddy water was a beautiful sight. 

This mornings 3 mile hike is moderate in level with about 3 climbs totaling around 360 feet in elevation.  

There are a number of sets of stairs cut into the side of the hill and a few areas where the path narrows to about 2 feet with a drop off into the canyon below.

So keep that in mind when setting out on this hike.
From the Visitors Center head south following the
path toward Lupine Loop and Waterfall Trail.    

March is still early in the wildflower season so spotting new flowers takes a keen eye in the low meadow area.   

Lupines are few and far between right now but the tiny Filaree, both Red and White-stemmed were prevalent.  They just aren’t as showy as the Lupine. 

I turned right heading toward the hills following the Lupine Loop. I did manage to spot a patch of Fiesta Flowers 

and nice spread 

of Padre Shooting Star 

before taking a left at the fork toward Rumsen Grinding Rock.

At this part of the hike, the path narrows, you are starting to make your climb to the waterfall.  

Watch for low hanging trees
and loose rocks. 

And the periodic crazy dog that comes out
of nowhere off lease running ever
so nimbly on the edge of the path. 

The Waterfall trail has a few treats for me,
a Giant Trillium, 

 and Globe Lilly camouflaged
among the firms. 

In the distance I can hear the waterfall. 

 I cross the footbridge,

ascend a flight of stairs,

 then what do my wandering eyes should appear but
the heretofore rumored waterfall.  

It is not quite Yosemite Falls, but it is our waterfall.  And having had this dry for four years, it is quite a sight.

This is normally a good turn around point but I decided to push further another half mile to a point in the Waterfall trail which offers a filtered view of the Carmel Valley below.  

Happy with the opportunity to hike between the storms I decided to error on the side of caution and head back before the next rain came.  

Until next time.  Happy Adventures!!!! 

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Photography and video – L. A. Momboisse
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Carmel-by-the-Sea Centennial 1916 – 2016

Carmel-by-the-Sea is celebrating its centennial year with a variety of events that will span the entire year. This post will act as an index for blog posts written about those events. So come along on a year of adventures with a home town tourist! 

The Centennial Launch – January 8, 2016

CRA Centennial Series Program One: James Frank Devendorf –  January 21, 2016  

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Centennial Logo – Centennial Web Site 

Carmel-by-the-Sea – Carmel Residents Association Centennial Series Program One – Jack Galante on James Franklin Devendorf

Carmel-by-the-Sea
Carmel Residents Association
Jack Galante on James Franklin Devendorf:
The Man and The Vision  

Jack Galante, great-grandson of James Franklin Devendorf, kicked off Carmel Residents Associations “Reliving Our History” Centennial Series January 21, 2016.  

Owner, along with his wife Dawn, of Galante Vineyards and Dawn’s Dream Winery, Jack was quite at ease in front of the standing room only audience filling Carpenter Hall at Sunset Center.  For an hour he entertained us with stories and pictures that left us all with an intimate image of his great-grandfather.

James Franklin Devendorf
(1856-1934)

James Franklin (Frank) Devendorf was born  April 6, 1856 in Fallsburg, Michigan, the third child of Thomas Jefferson Devendorf and Grace Congdon Devendorf.  When Frank was three, his father was “killed by a car.”  Our speaker Jack Galante is quick to tell us that this undoubtedly was a train car since the automobile had not been invented.  

In 1864, the widowed Grace married  Methodist preacher, A. W. Gray, and moved out west. By 1874 Gray had died and left Grace once again widowed.  Unable to support herself, she sent for her 18 year old son Frank.

Prior to coming to California, Frank had planned on pursuing a career in law. But as the eldest, and only son, it was now his duty to take care of his mother.  Plans for a law career would be no more, and Frank would take a job as a clerk at Hale’s Bros Department Store in downtown San Jose. 

It was during those first years in San Jose that Frank contracted tuberculosis and was advised by his doctor to seek work in the outdoors.  

In 1876, the twice widowed Grace married Captain Joseph Aram. And just who was Captain Aram? Born in New York in 1810, Aram eventually moved to Illinois.  In 1846, during the Mexican-American War, he left Illinois and enlisted under the short lived Bear Flag Republic (June 14 – July 9, 1846).  That same year Major Fremont took control of California from the Bear Flag Republic and he sent Captain Aram to protect the settlers at the Santa Clara Mission.  Aram was also sent to Monterey to help construct a fort.  After the war he settled in San Jose.  

After the marriage of Grace and Captain Aram, the captain became very fond of his step-son Frank, influencing him greatly.  Jack Galante notes that it was probably the captain who first introduced Frank to the Monterey Peninsula. And this does make sense – as Aram was familiar with Monterey.    

By 1877, Frank had fallen in love.  The young woman three years his junior was Lillie Potter, a music student at the College of the Pacific in Santa Clara.  Frank and Lillie married in 1879.  

Jack states, “We aren’t sure where he [Frank] worked all those early years, but in that era, a conscientious young man did not assume the responsibilities of a wife and family until he was able to provide the necessary support; and a loving father did not allow his daughter to marry unless he was assured that his future son-in-law was able to do so.  So we have to assume that by age 23, he [Frank] was gainfully employed.  The earliest indication…found relating to his employment was an 1883 announcement, at age 27, of the opening of a subdivision in San Martin and Morgan Hill.  A. L. Burbank and J. F. Devendorf are listed as agents.” (1)

So from this we can conclude that Frank had gone into real estate in order to support the family that he and Lillie would soon have.  

Frank and Lillie had five daughters.  Their first daughter Grace died in childbirth.  Their second, Edwina was born deaf and mute in 1881.  She became an accomplished painter and sculptor. A bronze bust she made of her father resides in Devendorf Park.

Then came Myrtle. Their fourth daughter, Jack Galante’s grandmother, Lillian was born in 1890.  And finally Marion. Jack stated, that by the time his grandmother Lillian was born, the Devendorf family was quite prosperous.  By 1897 the family purchased a large home with verandas and expansive lawns high in the hills above Alum Rock Park.

And then came Carmel….”A town with a temperament wholly its own.” (3)

Jack Galante continued the story of his great-grandfather offering questions to provoke his audience’s imagination. 

“How can one describe Frank Devendorf – a visionary, an impractical dreamer, a gambler? Not a gambler in the ordinary sense of the word.  But he did gamble his family’s present and future security when he got rid of all his other assets and occupations and devoted himself entirely to the development of Carmel.  Certainly he was a visionary.  My grandmother [Lillian] recalled a historic picnic on a point of land on the Seventeen Mile Drive.  It was summer, 1900. Her father looked over at the curving white sand of Carmel Beach and said: “Girls, I’m going to build a town there!” (1)

The Devendorf – Powers Connection

Though it is not completely clear how Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers met, more information was discovered during Jack’s talk.  At the presentation Erin Gafil, great-great granddaughter of Frank and Jane Powers remarked that there is some documentation that the two of them, Devendorf and Powers, may have been neighbors at one point.  We will just have to wait for Erin’s talk, Part 2 of the Carmel Residents Associations Centennial Series, March 17th, to see what she may have uncovered. 

What Jack does go on to tell us is that Devendorf and Powers must have known each other by November 1900, because that was the month that Frank Powers purchased two of Frank Devendorf’s Carmel lots. Why would Frank Powers purchase lots in a relatively unknown village on the central coast?

To get the answer, we need to rewind one year to 1899 – when according to Kirk Gafill, (great-great-grandson of Frank Powers who spoke at the Centennial Launch January 8, 2016) Frank Powers had been given a piece of land in Carmel in 1899, in lieu of cash for a legal bill.

A short time later that same year, Frank Powers traveled to Carmel to check out his new property.  Kirk Gafill described the adventure at the Centennial Launch as follows: Frank “took the train down to Monterey, and the stage coach over what was then Monterey Hill…

and camped out by what was then the ruins of Carmel Mission.  He woke up in the morning with the fog, walked around the ruins,

wandered over through the pine trees down to the beach and saw the dunes and realized it was a very special place and in fact there was some value to the legal bill he had just collected on.” (2)

So, it appears that when Frank Powers purchased two of Frank Devendorf’s Carmel lots in 1900, he had already decided that there was something to this land in Carmel. And in fact that might be why Powers purchased another 702 Carmel lots from Dr. Walton Saunders the same year. Two years later, in 1902, Powers had amassed about 80% of the lots of Carmel.   

At the same time, by 1902 Frank Devendorf had sold the family house in Alum Rock Park and put all his assets into the development of Carmel. 

On November 28, 1902, Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers formed the Carmel Development Company and held their first Board Meeting.

Jack Galante went on to explain the two men’s agreement as follows,  “Devendorf proposed: to take charge of the property “in the same manner as I have had charge for Frank Powers, giving my entire time and attention toward the development of this property,” for 2 years for 25% of all sales of land made during this period.” (1)

Frank Devendorf was away from his wife and daughters much of the time during the early years of Carmel’s development.  After selling the house in Alum Rock, Frank moved Lillie and the girls into a rented house in Oakland. The post card below is postmarked from Carmel April 1909. Struggling at times with the residual effects of tuberculosis,  Frank wrote to Lillie, “I am better today and am trying to be careful.”  

Frank Devendorf had a love for trees and the beautiful environment of the Monterey Peninsula. (He may had picked this up from his step father Captain Joseph Aram who established the very first nursery in Santa Clara County before his death in 1898.) Frank is responsible for the row of pine trees down the middle of Ocean Avenue which can be seen in their infancy in the flyer put out by Carmel Development Company c. 1909 shown below.

Frank Devendorf envisioned Carmel as being a town for families, and that they would live “in full harmony with the keynote given by nature.”

In the first flyer put out by Carmel Development Company shown below, the character of Carmel residents is described as “college professors, artists, writers of all kinds, students of music and the arts in their various phases, naturally congregate here.  The surroundings are kept to invite them. More than a hundred of our residents are supported by the product of brush or pen or through music or lectures.” 

During the late teen years of the 1900’s, after Carmel had been established, Frank Devendorf focused his attention on the development of the Carmel Highlands.  By then his daughters were grown and Lillie was free to come and live with Frank in Carmel. They were finally able to enjoy an extended time together in Carmel.  For their next 15 or so years time was spent between development of properties in the Highlands, picnics and traveling.   

In the fall of 1934, Frank went out during a storm to find water for the Highlands property.  Though he was encouraged not to go, Frank went because he knew that the residents of the Highlands were depending upon him to secure water for the development. From this journey during the storm, Frank became ill and never recovered.  He passed away November 2, 1934. 

A few minutes after 6pm, Jack finished his fascinating presentation on his great-grandfather Frank Devendorf, thanked us for the opportunity to speak to us and to honor his family. 

Then invited us to a celebratory toast from one of Galante Vineyard or Dawn’s Dream Winery vintages.  Jack finally left us with this little bit of wisdom, “Always drink upstream from the herd!” – Yup, makes sense.

 

Adventures of A Home Town Tourist Centennial Index

Carmel-by-the-Sea official Centennial Website 

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(1) Excerpt from text of Jack Galante talk on his great-grandfather, James Franklin Devendorf, January 21, 2016 at the Sunset Center. Text courtesy of The Carmel Residents Association Presents “Reliving Our History,” The Centennial Series, Part 1:  Jack Galante on his great-grandfather, Frank Devendorf, The “Father of Carmel.” 

(2) Excerpt from talk by Kirk Gafill, great-great-grandson of Frank Powers given at the Centennial Launch, January 8, 2016 by the World War I Monument on Ocean and Junipero.

(3)  Excerpt from flyer from Carmel Development Company, c. 1909 taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

All pictures are by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below: 

Picture of James Franklin Devendorf as a child,
Picture of James Franklin Devendorf at age 21,
Picture of real estate listing,
Picture of Frank and Lillie’s daughters,
and Picture of Frank in front of Carmel Development Company 1905 all courtesy of The Carmel Residents Association Presents “Reliving Our History,” The Centennial Series, Part 1:  Jack Galante on his great-grandfather, Frank Devendorf, The “Father of Carmel.” 

Post card c. 1932 of Hale Bros. downtown San Jose from Plummer and Associates’ Blog.

Picture of Carmel Hill 1908 from Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Picture of Carmel Mission in ruins, c. 1880 from the City of Monterey, Colton Hall Museum. 

Post card from Frank Devendorf to Lillie taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Picture of Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers in a buggy – courtesy of Jack Galante and the Jane Galante Collection. 

Pictures of flyer from Carmel Development Company, c. 1909 taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Carmel-by-the-Sea – Jane Powers Walkway Loop Plus Carmel Beach Walking Tour – Part 1

Carmel-by-the-Sea Jane Powers Walkway Loop Plus Carmel Beach Walking Tour – Part 2

Launch of the Carmel-by-the-Sea Centennial Celebration – January 8, 2016

Carmel-by-the-Sea
Centennial Celebration
Launch
January 8, 2016 

On a rather dreary Friday afternoon, Carmel-by-the-Sea Community Services was busy organizing the set up for Carmel’s Centennial Celebration Launch. Chairs were set up in the middle of a busy downtown intersection. 

Not to worry though, Ocean Avenue remained open, but was marked down to one lane each way past the historic World War I Memorial Arch.

By 2:45pm Carmelites began to gather 

staking their claim to the best seating. 

Long time Carmelites, special guests,
and dignitaries arrived. 

Kirk Gafill, great-great-grandson of Frank Powers

 and Jack Galante, great-grandson of Frank Devendorf discussed their upcoming remarks.

Frank Devendorf kept watch on the festivities
 from the label of his great-grandsons

centennial vintage.

Standing next to the special “big reveal,”
Channel 8 News Anchor, Lauren Seaver,
 was on the scene with her cameraman. 

Not missing a beat she caught a quick interview with
Carmel-by-the-Sea Mayor Jason Burnett, 

and Congressman Sam Farr.That is 
Historic Resources Board Member
Elinor Laiolo finding her seat in the background. 

 Carmel Councilman Ken Talmage and long time Carmelite Cindy Lloyd arrived, while Centennial Committee member and former mayor of Carmel Sue McCloud and Jack Galante reviewed last minute notes.  

There is new Carmelite and long time County Supervior
 Dave Potter as well as  City Councilwoman Carrie Theis.

As the audience grew, 

and grew,  I spied Carmel Heritage Society Vice-President
 Carl Iverson, former  Carmel mayor Ken White and under that black fedora former Carmel mayor Charlotte Townsend. 

It’s almost time – Sue McCloud greeted
Congressman Sam Farr and 

Centennial Committee members Merv Sutton
 and Barbara Livingston were seated. 

Chief of Police and temporary
City Administrator
Mike Calhoun is in the house. 

A dreary Friday afternoon won’t keep Carmelites from 
celebrating. It’ 3:00 pm time to get this party started!! 

Make sure to check the Centennial Website frequently
for details about the 100 events planned for Carmel’s hundredth year and enjoy the following 20 minute video of the highlights of the Centennial Launch.  

Adventures of A Home Town Tourist Centennial Index

Carmel-by-the-Sea official Centennial Website __
Pictures and video by – L A Momboisse http://www.carmelbytheseaca.blogspot.com 

Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part I – Scenic Bluff Pathway Along Carmel Beach

Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part I 

Scenic Bluff Pathway Along Carmel Beach
1 mile 

Those who visit our village may only have a few hours to spend in Carmel-by-the-Sea.  Some enjoy shopping, some love to eat, others enjoy a walk.  The Scenic Loop Walking Tour is a series of two blog posts.  They are a self-guided walking tour of what I believe feature three miles of natures most impressive beauty.  If time does not permit, this first part can be walked as 1 1/2 miles round trip – Just turn around at the new restrooms on Santa Lucia and Scenic where this blog ends.

So that you are not constrained by the two hour parking limit in town,  I suggest you park in the parking lot at the end of Ocean Avenue by Carmel Beach.  There is no time limit here on parking during the day.  

There are three public restrooms along this walking tour. One at the beginning, base of Ocean Avenue, at the end of Part 1 at Santa Lucia and Scenic, and next to the parking lot at Carmel River Beach.   

This walk is fairly level but weather conditions can be windy and cold.  A windbreaker or sweater is recommended, dark glasses, camera, and binoculars are useful.

Follow along on this google map which marks highlights of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea.  

Start this walk at the Carmel North Dunes Habitat Restoration Site (northwest corner of Ocean and San Antonio* next to the Carmel Beach parking lot) under one of Carmel’s heritage trees, a Blue Gum Eucalyptus. 

This tree, the largest in the Village, (the trunk measures over 22 feet around) just underwent a haircut in readiness for (hopefully) the impending El Nino.  This Eucalyptus is thought to have been planted in the 1850’s. 

Before we continue on to Carmel Beach take a moment to look beyond the ropes at the Habitat Restoration project. The Carmel-by-the-Sea Garden Club began this project in 2009 to “correct a century of  human disturbance which had greatly affected the natural state of the dunes.”

The non-native and invasive ice plant was removed.  Though the battle continues – as ice plant pushes through the native Pacific Dune Grass shown below.

With the ice plant gone (for the most part) the natural dune plants have begun to reappear.  For the majority of the year I have to say the natural dune plants are not much to look at. Still I understand and embrace the concept – at least in small doses.  

At times during the spring, summer, and fall we now see glimpses of native plants, delicate Pink, 

and Yellow Sand Verbena, 

Beach Evening Primrose,

and the Dune Sagewort. 

Continue your walk down Ocean Avenue toward the ocean. After the restrooms, follow the boardwalk past the Ghost Tree (a dead Monterey Cypress planted early in the 1900’s)

to the Carmel Beach Overlook.  

Take in the unobstructed view of Pebble Beach to the north (shown below) and south to Point Lobos.

Walk, back tracking to the parking lot and cross the street following the brick path to the south side of Ocean Avenue.

Here you will find a unique rusted steel sculpture attached to the fence.

This is actually the second sculpture at this location, the first one designed by Mark Periman was damaged over the years and replaced in 2005 with this one by artist Michael Largent.

For fellow Geocachers, (I know you are out there) this is the site of one of our numerous caches in town, called The End of Ocean Avenue. 

Continue one block back toward town to Scenic Drive.  On the southeast corner is a large Spanish style home.  

In 1937 this two story home was built for the President of Zellerbach Paper Company, Harold Lionel Zellerbach. Harold’s grandfather, Anthony Zellerbach founded the paper company in 1868. 

 Continue south along Scenic Drive to Eighth Avenue.  

It is here you will start the walk along the Scenic Bluff Pathway which parallels Scenic Road on the bluffs above Carmel Beach.

Just in case you are interested, here is a little background on how the Scenic Bluff Pathway came to be.  

In March of 1983 a disastrous storm (part of the 1982-83 very strong El Nino weather system) thundered through Monterey County. Almost overnight the beach slopes along Carmel Beach became beach cliffs.  Sixteen large cypress trees fell and five beach stairways were damaged.  Four of which were reduced to rubble. 

In 1983, Mayor Charlotte Townsend formed the Beach Task Force to clean up the damage.  Phase I completed in 1985, consisted of beach clean-up, installation of long-term stabilization of the bluffs, and a new storm drain system.  The cost, $816,283.  

In January 1988, under Mayor Clint Eastwood, City Council approved the work for Phase II which would include a decomposed granite bluff-top walkway beginning at Eighth Avenue and ending at Santa Lucia, reconstruction of five stairways, addition of handicapped ramps, benches, landscaping and irrigation.  The cost, $825,000.  

Mayor Jean Grace, who had worked on the Beach Task Force before becoming mayor, cut the ribbon for the walkway in June 1988.  It had taken five years but Scenic Bluff Walkway was finally open. This pathway, marked by the blue and silver ocean sign, is a small section of the 1,200 mile California Coastal Trail from Oregon to Mexico. 
  

While  you enjoy the beauty of this first half mile, here are a few things to keep an eye out for.

If you are able to take your eyes off the breathtaking beauty of Carmel Beach, the houses that line Scenic are quite stunning themselves. We have many styles, no tract housing here, and some have had famous residents. 

The three story Spanish Eclectic style home, with the massive brick chimney named Anything Goes**, was the home of Richard Cox.

Richard was born in Carmel in 1930, his father Elmer was a WWI veteran, his mother the silent film actress Ruth Powell. Richard majored in Drama at Stanford and took the stage name Dick Sargent. For those of my generation we remember Richard as Darrin Stephens from the TV show Bewitched.  

Just after the Ninth Avenue pass-through to San Antonio Avenue is Las Ondas, a three story house with tile roof. Built in 1933, this was the home of former Carmel mayor, Clint Eastwood during the 1980’s and 90’s.  The name Las Ondas is visible on the gate on San Antonio Street which you will pass on Part 2 of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour.

In the next block (between Ninth and Tenth Avenues) there is a proliferation of mid-century modern homes.  This style has grown on me over the years.  Ad Tearman a 1,950 square foot Japanese-style two-story wood home was featured in the January 2011 Architectural Digest.  Here is a slide show of the interior.      

Between Twelfth and Thirteenth look for the white stucco cottage with tile roof named Periwinkle and Sea Urchin. They were originally built in 1915 as two fisherman’s huts. Between 1930 and 1981, five different additions and renovations were made to the dwellings.  My mother told me stories of visiting them in the 1930’s. I took the picture below in the 1990’s when the homes were still divided as two separate units. 

In 2000 Periwinkle and Sea Urchin were united as one by a hall. You can see this in the picture below. 

  

At Thirteenth Avenue Carmel stone stairs lead to Cooke’s Cove. 

Named after the MacGowan – Cooke sisters who lived in the large Tudor style residence two blocks east of the cove on Thirteenth.

Alice MacGowan and Grace MacGowan Cooke came to Carmel in 1908, prior to that they lived in Helicon Hall, in Englewood, New Jersey.  Helicon Hall was a social experiment in socialist living designed by Upton Sinclair which burnt down five months after its inception.

After the failed experiment, Sinclair Lewis came to Carmel, and the MacGowan sisters followed.  They purchased the large home, which was built in 1905, on the bluff above the cove.  At the time, it was the only house in the area. In Part 2 of this walking tour we will have a chance to see their house. But for now we continue south on the Scenic Bluff Walkway to Santa Lucia and Carmel’s newest public restroom.

As with everything in Carmel, things take time.  Our new restrooms began life in 1991 as a suggestion by the 2016 Centennial Committee. Twenty-three years after the suggestion, in December of 2014 they opened to the public.

Built to blend in with the architecture and geography of Scenic Road they are hardly visible from the beach level or Street level. Cost to the village $595,000.

This is where we leave off Part 1 of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour. Part 2 will loop around Carmel Point to Carmel River Beach and back to the Carmel Beach parking lot via San Antonio Avenue.

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* Carmel-by-the-Sea does not have addresses we have coordinates.
** Many houses in Carmel-by-the-Sea are referred to by their name.

All photography by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Black and white photo of Mayor Eastwood’s swearing in, from Carmel Magazine, Spring/Summer 2012. 

Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part 2 – Scenic Road around Carmel Point pass River Beach, to Carmelo Street and San Antonio Avenue

Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part 2 

Scenic Road around Carmel Point
Pass River Beach, to Carmelo Street
 and San Antonio Avenue
2 miles

Part 2 of the Scenic Loop begins at the new public restroom at Scenic and Santa Lucia. This portion of the tour is 2 miles and will take us around Carmel Point, past Carmel River Beach and Wetlands, over to San Antonio Road and back to the Blue Gum Eucalyptus at the northwest Corner of Ocean and San Antonio where our walking tour began.  You may follow this walk on Google Map.

We are at the south end of Carmel Beach.  Take a moment to look back at where you have been. Straight across Carmel Bay is Pescadero Point, the Lodge at Pebble Beach, and the Pebble Beach Golf Course.  

Very shortly you will have a glimpse of the north side of a house built by Frank Lloyd Wright. Mr. Wright was in his 80’s when he took on this project.  It took him five years to build and it was completed in 1952. 

Periodically this home is included on the Carmel Heritage Society annual June House and Garden Tour. I have had the privilege to tour the inside on many occasions.  More pictures and history can be found at my blog post here.  

At 26085 Scenic take notice of the two story modern Pueblo style house named Cimarron. According to Carmel lore, Hollywood actor Richard Dix built a Taos style adobe on the property in 1929 and named it after his film Cimarron which was released in 1931.  

  

In 1937 the property was sold to Gustav Lannestock, a Swedish emigrant who made his living, building, writing and translating.

Quite the socialites, Gustav and his wife Lucille nightly hosted 5:00 p.m. cocktail hour for anyone who was walking by their home.  The casual gatherings were frequented by local authors John Steinbeck, and Robinson Jeffers.

In 1949 Swedish writer Vilhelm Moberg happened to walk by. Moberg had just begun writing a novel entitled Emigrants. The Swedes became fast friends and Lannestock would end up translating the four book series of Emigrants from Swedish to English.  To complete the Hollywood full circle, Moberg’s novels would be made into two Warner Bros movies, The Emigrants and The New Land.  

Before walking on take in the view from the front of Cimarron of the crescent shaped Carmel Beach, Carmel Dunes, and Pebble Beach Golf Course.  

On the corner of Scenic and Martin you can’t miss the stone castle style house with false thatch roof. 

This home, built in 1993, looks larger than it is – at two bedrooms and two baths this house measures out

 at under 1,600 square feet.  

Across the street is the gate to the Frank Lloyd Wright house, one of only five homes built on the beach side of Scenic.  

Just past the fence and a set of mail boxes near the Frank Lloyd Wright house is a well worn path to the beach.  There are no steps so this does require climbing down and up an unstable bluff through ice plant. 

If the tide is out and you feel that you are capable of the climb it is worth it.  But use caution if climbing on the rocks and Never Turn Your Back On The Ocean! 

There are two rock houses right before making the curve around the rocky point ahead.  The first one with the tile roof, 26183 Scenic, was built in 2003.  This two bedroom, two bathroom sold  for a cool $11,950,000 in 2004. 

The second one called Pack’s Point of View, (that must be Pack looking over the fence below) was built in 2001. 

This five bedroom house sold in 2003 for $7,100,000.  An old Coldwell Banker listing showed this interior picture below. 

Time to take a look back at where you have been. Those are the Ocean Avenue Dunes to the farthest left of the picture below. We were there about 45 minutes ago when we took in the Carmel Beach Overlook!

A few yards ahead on our walk is a bend in Scenic Road.  At the bend is a stone wall with stairs that lead down to the Bay and Scenic Station for Carmel Area Wastewater District. 

There is some Carmel lore regarding a tunnel that once went from this wall to the basement of the Edward Kuster house on Ocean View Avenue in the 1920’s.  If you are standing by the wall just turn around and look up.  You can’t miss the Kuster Castle.

Edward Kuster (founder of the Golden Bough Theater in 1924) was the first husband of Una Jeffers. They divorced in 1913. Both remarried, (Una to Robinson Jeffers) but remained friends.  Such good friends that in 1920 Edward would built his house in Carmel just down the street from Una’s Tor House.  

The next half mile of coast to the Carmel Point Curve is rocky and wild.  There are many great areas for tide-pooling along this part of the walk.  But do so with great caution!!

As you round the point you can’t miss this European style 6,900 square foot home.  It happens to be the dream home of my very best friend.  Every time we walk by she imagines herself living in it. I have put her on notice to start saving her lunch money as it just came on the market for $13,750,000.  

As Scenic Road’s rocky coast line continues look off to the right at 

the rugged coast of Point Lobos State Reserve.  

Which is an adventure for another day. 

That set of rocks a few hundred yards from land is Carmel Point’s version of the 17 Mile Drive Bird Rock. With binoculars you can usually find a few Brandt’s Cormorant’s and Brown Pelican’s hanging out.   

Before going any further take a look back at where you have been.  In the distance is Pescadero Point just north of Pebble Beach.  

A bit further down Scenic, just before arriving at the intersection of Stewart Way look to your left to see Tor House and Hawk Tower, built in 1919 for Robinson and Una Jeffers. 

Once a year, the first Saturday in May, the Tor House Foundation holds their annual Garden Party.  This is the only time when photography is allowed on the property.  

Robinson Jeffers built Tor House and Hawk Tower with stones from the beach directly below the property.  Look to you right to see this beach.  This cove is very popular for scuba divers. 

Just above the cove is the iconic Butterfly House, built in 1952 by Frank Wynkoop. This 2,800 square foot house last sold in 2013 for $16,500,000. It is currently undergoing a major renovation.   

 In less than a tenth of a mile we arrive at the
 Carmel Point Curve.

It is hard to believe that at one time, Scenic Road was two way.  In 1965, my brother Dana learned to drive our station wagon on this road.  He took the curve wide hugging the edge every time just to scare my mom and I.  

Just around the curve, through the winter bloom of the Candelabra Plant, (aloe arborescens) you will get your first view of Carmel River Beach.  In one more week those spikes will pop bright red!!!

In 1602 when three Carmelite Friers were exploring this area with Viszcaino Expedition, they named this area El Rio Carmelo.  As it reminded them of their original Carmelilte Monestary at the foot of Mount Carmel in Palestine. It is from the name of this river that Carmel-by-the-Sea gets her name. 

Carmel River Beach has an extremely dangerous undertow. If you walk this beach stay out of the water.

When I was a young girl, my brother and I would bring our green plastic row boat down to the river to play.  When we left for the day, my mom would say, “stay away from the ocean side the tow will kill you.”  Somehow my brother and I listened to that wisdom and set our boat off on the river side for hours of adventures in the tule reeds. 

The Scenic Drive we have followed for the last two miles ends at the entrance to Carmel River Beach and Wetlands.

  There is a restroom just off the parking lot.

 Now focus your attention ahead (south) down the center of the sand bar toward Carmel Meadows.  This sand bar between the ocean and Carmel River and Wetlands is an ever changing landscape.   The picture above was taken in December 2015, the picture below April 2013.

If time permits and the sandbar is passable the Hike to Portola Crespi Cross in Carmel Meadows is a great add on to this hike.  I believe the best time to make the Portola Crespi Cross Hike is during wildflower season, and I am counting on this wildflower season to be stellar. 

A few interesting shore birds at the Carmel River Wetlands entertain the amateur birder in me (happily I am easily entertained). Like the group of Snowy Plovers I accidentally scared above and the solitary Snowy Egret below. 

Visible across the wetlands just above the tule reeds, 

are the Meadowview Triplex rooms of Mission Ranch.

For my fellow Geocachers pick up Kate’s Kache before leaving Carmel River Beach.  

 When you leave Carmel River Beach
you will be walking north along Carmelo Street.

Our last mile of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour returns to the Carmel Beach Ocean Avenue Parking Lot via residential streets.

Just a few houses past the wetlands on your right is an ultra modern stone and steel home at 26362 Carmelo.   

In 2009 the owners of this property hired local architect David Martin to completely remodel of what was their simple ranch style home. The only surviving feature from the old property is the majestic mayten tree in the front yard.  I had the privilege to tour this home during the 2015 Carmel Bach Festival Cottages, Gardens & Cantatas. 

If you would like to go beyond the steel and glass door, see my blog post here and scroll to the Cooperman Home.  

A block further on the left are four quaint cottages named after Robin Hood and his friends.  Built in the 1920’s, the Lincoln Green Inn at 26362 Carmelo was the first hotel built to serve guests on Carmel Point. 

Just past the Lincoln Green Inn turn left on Fifteenth Avenue and right on South San Antonio Avenue. 

On the southeast corner of South San Antonio and Fourteenth Avenue is a tiny gray and red cottage. This cottage began life around 1910 as a studio for writer John Fleming Wilson.

In 1912 Philip Wilson Sr.(no relation) purchased the small writers studio and converted it into a club house for the nine hole golf course he built on Point Loeb (now Carmel Point). The picture below shows the Club House in 1914. 

At the onset of World War I, Philip Wilson Sr. was called to service and the golf course was abandoned.  The land was later subdivided and in 1990  a one bedroom house was built on the property – integrating the old Club House into the home as a living room.  

In 2015 the current owners (also owners of Carmel Cottage Inn which we will pass shortly on our walking tour) removed the addition and restored the Club House to its original size, even maintaining the original fireplace and interior siding. 

The Club House is now called the Golf House and now happily acts as a guest cottage for the newly built main house to its north. To see the inside of these houses see my blog post on the 2015 Carmel Heritage Society House and Garden Tour.  It is the third house reviewed in the post. 

Now back to our walk. At Santa Lucia Avenue make a right and then a quick left back on to San Antonio.

At Thirteenth and San Antonio look east up Thirteenth Street to view the MacGowan-Cooke house which I discussed in Part 1.  

Cooke’s Cove on Carmel Beach at Thirteenth is named after sisters Alice MacGowan and Grace MacGowan Cooke.  

Over the course of the next seven blocks from Thirteenth Avenue to Ocean Avenue you may either take one of the “cut through” paths (on the west side of the street) back down to Scenic and walk Scenic back to Ocean Avenue or stay on San Antonio and walk a small area of  residential Carmel known as the Golden Rectangle.

If you stay on San Antonio you are in for a treat as every home is unique. Many feature creative names such as Deamcatcher, Beach Therapy, My Rx or 

Surf’s Up. Names take the place of address numbers in the village.   

 There are small cottages, 

 

numerous custom builds 

in all architectural and 

whimsical styles. 

Of course we also have plenty of historical homes and inns on San Antonio.  Keep your eye out for Braemar on the east side just south of Ninth Avenue.

This Craftsman style bungalow was built around 1921 by one of Carmel’s early master builders, M. J. Murphy.  I toured this house during a Bach Festival House and Garden Tour, you may view more of the grounds at this site.  

Just after Eighth Avenue look for the Carmel Cottage Inn on the east side of San Antonio. These are five historical homes lovingly restored and graciously run as an inn by innkeeper and friend Cheryl Assemi. 

 I have toured and photographed this property numerous times. One of my absolute favorites, see this blog post for more pictures of the property inside and out.  Just scroll past Hob Nob.   

If only the ground in Carmel could talk, this property would have stories to tell.  Midway between Ocean and Seventh on the east side lived Lincoln Steffens, described by Carmel author Alissandra Dramov, as a “muckraking journalist, author, Socialist, and political activist.” (1)

Born in 1866, Lincoln Steffens studied at Berkeley, served as a reporter for the Evening Post in New York in 1892, and was editor of McClure’s Magazine in 1901.

In 1927 Steffens purchased the six year old house that sat on the property 4 southeast of Ocean. It became known as Getaway, and had many famous visitors: Robinson Jeffers, Gertrude Stein, Carl Sandburg, Langston Hughes, and John Steinbeck among others.        

In 1967 the Sigma Delta Chi Professional Journalistic Society honored the site of Steffens home with the stone plaque pictured above.  In 1989 the property was sold for $975,000 and the new owners completed a major remodel, addition and reconstruction to the original home two years later.

  The current residence, now called Meremar, hardly resembles the Steffens home of the 1920’s and 30’s. 

At the next corner notice the French country style

 Ocean’s End, 

and you are back to the Blue Gum Eucalyptus where our Scenic Loop Walking Tour began. 

Until our next Adventure of a Home Town Tourist, keep on exploring!

___
All pictures by L. A. Momboisse except those listed below: 

Black and white photo of Cimarron – Carmel Magazine, Summer/Fall 2013, page 87.

Black and white photo of the Golf House as the Club House in 1914 – Courtesy of Harrison Memorial History Library. 

(1) Dramov, Alissandra. Carmel-by-the-Sea, The Early Years (1903-1913). Author House, 2012. p.149.

17th Annual Carmel Heritage Society Inns of Distinction – 2015 – Part 3 – Pine Inn and Lobos Lodge

A block south of Happy Landing Inn are the next two hotels on our tour, Pine Inn (NE Corner Ocean and Monte Verde) 

and Lobos Lodge (NW Corner of Ocean and Monte Verde). 

These two inns, which sit across the street from each other have a rather entwined history. Here is a little background.  

In 1889, Delos Goldsmith, Carmel City’s first builder, erected the first hotel in town on the northeast corner of Ocean Avenue and Broadway (now Junipero).  The Hotel Carmelo was a two story wooden structure with eight guest rooms. The picture below shows Hotel Carmelo c. 1890.  

In 1903, Hotel Carmelo was purchased by Devendorf and Powers of the Carmel Development Company. It was partially dismantled, hoisted onto pine logs, and pulled by mule down Ocean Avenue to its present site. (Devendorf and Powers wanted their guests to be closer to the beach.) The original front of the Carmelo Hotel (shown below) today faces west on Monte Verde 

and is the current entrance to II Fornaio.    

On July 4, 1903 the Hotel Carmelo was reopened to great fanfare as the Pine Inn.  The picture below of the Pine Inn is from the first Carmel Development Company brochure early 1900’s.

In 1920, John Jordon, actor, scholar, and former mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea from 1926 – 1928, purchased the Pine Inn.  The inn had become so popular that a campground had to be added for the overflow guests.

The Sanborn fire map below from 1924 shows the tent campground on the northwest corner of Ocean and Monte Verde across from the Pine Inn. This is the lot where the Lobos Lodge would ultimately reside. In 1924 the map marked the area as Tent Cabins.

                        

John Jordan owned the Pine Inn for 20 years.  According to building permits on file at City Hall, Jordan added stucco buildings to the northwest corner property in 1924 and 1930. They were then called the Pine Inn Cottages.  The Sanborn fire map below from 1930 shows 13 structures on the Pine Inn Cottages property. 

Sometime between 1930 and 1940, Jordan sold this property to Tirey Ford who ran the property as Lobos Lodge. The 1930 – 1962 Sanborn Map shown below verifies this name change.

Tirey Ford took out three building permits during 1940 for alterations and a remodel of the cottages.  The picture post card shown below is of  Lobos Lodge c. 1940.  

Herman W. Fletcher of Pebble Beach purchased Lobos Lodge in the 1960’s.  In 1973 the cottages were torn down and Mr. Fletcher hired Steven Sassoon & Associates Civil Engineers and Kraftzeck Construction to design and build the current Lobos Lodge 

which today consists of six buildings 

with a total of 30 rooms.

Our tour of Lobos Lodge begins with a

tasting from Carmel’s newest wine room, Carmel Road.  The grapes come from vineyards located on the eastern and western foothills of the Salinas Valley, but you don’t need to go that far to enjoy Carmel Road wines their new wine room is located in the Pine Inn Courtyard on Lincoln. If you are a fan of Drew Barrymore stop by and try her 2013 Barrymore by Carmel Road Pino Grigio.

 The Inns of Distinction tour tasting served up two options, a 2013 Unoaked Riesling and 2013 Pinot Noir. 

My favorite neighborhood grocery and deli Bruno’s provided meat and cheese platters that perfectly accompanied the cup of  

hearty Greek Lemon Soup.  Our soup was provided by the President of Carmel Heritage Society, Dawn Dull.  She masterfully whipped up five gallons of this delicious soup which was consumed within the first 90 minutes of the tour.

Lobos Lodge opened two rooms for viewing.  I had never toured this hotel before and was pleasantly surprised to find the that the rooms were quite spacious with very high ceilings.   

Room 51 on the lower level is an Intermediate King.  It  does not have a private patio but  has plenty of sitting area by the cozy fireplace. 

Room 44 is on the upper level  

and also an Intermediate King with a fireplace.

Now back to the history of the Pine Inn.  I left off around 1940 which was the year Harrison Godwin became the owner. Harrison had previously owned the La Playa Hotel with his brother Fred.

After purchasing the Pine Inn, Harrison closed the inn for five months for remodeling – reopening April 1, 1941. He changed the interior design to French Victorian and added 12 shops to the courtyard, a garden dining area, rooftop garden, and the Red Parlor Pub. The Red Parlor Pub was quite popular until its closing in 1995.  The area where the pub once stood, across the hall from the old fashioned Letter Box, now serves as offices for Pine Inn staff. 

The current owners, Richard and Mimi Gunner, purchased the Pine Inn in 1985.  Working with their designer Max Davis from Honolulu the Pine Inn interior was transformed once again, this time in a Eurasian Victorian style with lacquered Chinese furniture and Pierre Deux French fabrics. 

Our tour starts immediately upon entering the ornate oval beveled glass door off Ocean Avenue.  Silk tapestries and Poinsettias line the stairs 

to the silk and walnut paneled lobby 

filled with antiques from Europe and Asia.    

 The fireplace in the front lobby dates back to the original Hotel Carmelo from 1889.

Room #10 upstairs

is a Superior King  

 with a charming sitting area, writing desk, 

 and ocean view. 

(That brick chimney sticking out from the rooftop in the photo below is original from 1889.) 

Room #4 is next to the gazebo in the courtyard. 

It is a Deluxe Patio Queen

 with two queen beds, 

sitting area, 

and a spacious Jacuzzi tub. 

Back through the Il Fornaio Panetteria  

to the main restaurant. 

Il Fornaio offered a scrumptious spread with
 house made flatbread Rustichella 

and house made thin crust pizza’s –
 Marherita and Vegetariana.  

With my small plate in hand I happily accepted a taste of Rancho Galante 2011 from Galante Vineyards.  

Not usually a red wine drinker, Rancho Galante 2011, a blend of Cabernet, Malbec, Petite Sirah and Merlot was a perfect match with my Rustichella.

With my tasting I received a coupon to enjoy a two for one wine tasting at the Galante Tasting Room in town. 

Located at end of Der Ling Alley off Ocean, 

or the back of Piccadilly Park on Dolores,

 just look for Slim he will point the way.  

We are only half way through our Inns of Distinction Tour – still more to come.  Next up in Part 4 we will visit Monte Verde Inn and Cypress Inn. 

For a map of this years tour and the location of all restaurants and wine rooms which provided food and wine for our tour please visit this google map. 

Below is a video of all the venues. 

____
All pictures by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Black and white picture of  Hotel Carmelo c. 1890 – History of the Pine Inn, Nixon files, Harrison Memorial Library History Branch.
Black and white picture of Hotel Carmelo – Hale, Sharron, A Tribute to Yesterday, 1980, Valley Press, p. 11.z
Black and white picture of Pine Inn from Carmel Development Company brochure early 1900’s, Harrison Memorial Library History Branch.
3 Sanborn Fire Maps – Carmel-by-the-Sea City Hall Records
Postcard of Lobos Lodge – Mrs. D E, Nixon files, Harrison Memorial Library History Branch.
Black and white photograph of Harrison Godwin – Game and Gossip, May 1955, page 16.

17th Annual Carmel Heritage Society Inns of Distinction – 2015 – Part 2 – Happy Landing Inn

Happy Landing Inn
North Side Monte Verde between Fifth and Sixth
Amenities:  Complimentary Breakfast In Your Room,
100% Dog Friendly, 7 Unique Rooms 

Happy Landing Inn was originally constructed by master builder M. J. Murphy in 1926 as a private home for two San Jose families, the Leeb’s and the Blauer’s.  The building permit estimated the cost to build this home in 1926 at $11,000. 

The June 5, 1926 edition of the Peninsula Daily Herald described the home this way: “… unique in design, and is built in three separate parts.  In front facing the west, is a large living room, with dining room and kitchen on the north.  The living room is large with beamed ceilings and a fine rock fireplace.  

Under this part is the servants quarters and the garages.  

To the rear is a large patio with two houses on either side.

  One for the Blauers 

and the one on the south for the Leets. There are four bedrooms in each cottage with standard bathrooms and showers and built in dressers.” 

During the 1930’s the compound was sold to Velma Craig who used the property as her personal residence and at times as a boarding house.  In 1975 the property was sold the the Thorngate family who began running the property as the Happy Landing.

In 2014, Mark and Shari Lasher purchased the inn and remodeled the entire property giving it a sleek new look.  The main building is now the lobby of Happy Landing Inn, and the two cottages in the back serve as the guest rooms for the bed and breakfast. 

On the day of the tour I walk up the stone steps, past the striking Japanese maple in full color into the festively decorated lobby. 

Crispy Spring Rolls and Prawns Tempura made by The Grill on Ocean Avenue call to me. 

Check out The Grill on Ocean Avenue for lunch or dinner on Ocean Avenue between Dolores and Lincoln.  But I digress.  I take a few moments to sit by the fireplace while enjoying my Spring Roll before being drawn to the courtyard by the sultry voice of Debbie Davis, who has the tour guests under her spell.

“Well hello Mr. Manzoni.  Yes I don’t mind if I do.” 

Mark Manzoni of Manzoni Vineyards cheerfully pours me a taste of his award-winning 2013 Pinot Gris.  He also had on hand a 2013 Pinot Noir.

When time permits you should pay a visit to Manzoni Wine Bar in Carmel in the Paseo Courtyard w/s of San Carlos between Ocean and Seventh.  Ms. Vina runs the place.  Here she is sitting in front of her antique bar. 

Anyway, it is time to tour six of the seven unique guest rooms at Happy Landing Inn.  Each one is designed to honor a different American icon.  So come along with me on this sentimental journey.  

Next up in Part 3, the Pine Inn and Lobos Lodge. For a map of this years tour and the location of all restaurants and wine rooms which provided food and wine for our tour please visit this google map. 
__
All pictures are by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below: 
Early brochure for the Happy Landing from Harrison Memorial Library History Department.