Garland Park, http://schemas.google.com/blogger/2008/kind#post, Waterfall

Garland Park – Between Storms – Waterfall and Early Wildflowers

With just a few hours of clear skys Sunday afternoon between the latest series of the Pineapple Express, Mike took off on his bike and I took off on a hike.  Rumor had it that the waterfall at Garland was running after four years of drought. I wanted to make sure there was some truth to this rumor. 


Well I wasn’t alone.  By noon on Sunday the lower trails of Garland were streaming with hikers, mountain bikers, and dogs 


of all shapes and sizes jumping for joy to be out in the open.     

For the last four years I would cross the parking lot to the trail head at the Visitors Center by walking across the dry Carmel River bed.  Not today! Hallelujah – the temporary footbridge has been removed for the winter – Carmel River is flowing. This may also have had something to do with the removal of the San Clemente Dam last year. But whatever the cause the muddy water was a beautiful sight. 

This mornings 3 mile hike is moderate in level with about 3 climbs totaling around 360 feet in elevation.  

There are a number of sets of stairs cut into the side of the hill and a few areas where the path narrows to about 2 feet with a drop off into the canyon below.


So keep that in mind when setting out on this hike.
From the Visitors Center head south following the
path toward Lupine Loop and Waterfall Trail.    


March is still early in the wildflower season so spotting new flowers takes a keen eye in the low meadow area.   


Lupines are few and far between right now but the tiny Filaree, both Red and White-stemmed were prevalent.  They just aren’t as showy as the Lupine. 


I turned right heading toward the hills following the Lupine Loop. I did manage to spot a patch of Fiesta Flowers 

and nice spread 


of Padre Shooting Star 


before taking a left at the fork toward Rumsen Grinding Rock.

At this part of the hike, the path narrows, you are starting to make your climb to the waterfall.  
Watch for low hanging trees
and loose rocks. 
And the periodic crazy dog that comes out
of nowhere off lease running ever
so nimbly on the edge of the path. 
The Waterfall trail has a few treats for me,
a Giant Trillium, 

 and Globe Lilly camouflaged
among the firms. 

In the distance I can hear the waterfall. 

 I cross the footbridge,
ascend a flight of stairs,

 then what do my wandering eyes should appear but
the heretofore rumored waterfall.  

It is not quite Yosemite Falls, but it is our waterfall.  And having had this dry for four years, it is quite a sight.

This is normally a good turn around point but I decided to push further another half mile to a point in the Waterfall trail which offers a filtered view of the Carmel Valley below.  
Happy with the opportunity to hike between the storms I decided to error on the side of caution and head back before the next rain came.  
Until next time.  Happy Adventures!!!! 
___
Photography and video – L. A. Momboisse
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Carmel-by-the-Sea – Carmel Residents Association Centennial Series Program One – Jack Galante on James Franklin Devendorf

Carmel-by-the-Sea
Carmel Residents Association
Jack Galante on James Franklin Devendorf:
The Man and The Vision 
 

Jack Galante, great-grandson of James Franklin Devendorf, kicked off Carmel Residents AssociationsReliving Our History” Centennial Series January 21, 2016.  

Owner, along with his wife Dawn, of Galante Vineyards and Dawn’s Dream Winery, Jack was quite at ease in front of the standing room only audience filling Carpenter Hall at Sunset Center.  For an hour he entertained us with stories and pictures that left us all with an intimate image of his great-grandfather.

James Franklin Devendorf
(1856-1934)
James Franklin (Frank) Devendorf was born  April 6, 1856 in Fallsburg, Michigan, the third child of Thomas Jefferson Devendorf and Grace Congdon Devendorf.  When Frank was three, his father was “killed by a car.”  Our speaker Jack Galante is quick to tell us that this undoubtedly was a train car since the automobile had not been invented.  

In 1864, the widowed Grace married  Methodist preacher, A. W. Gray, and moved out west. By 1874 Gray had died and left Grace once again widowed.  Unable to support herself, she sent for her 18 year old son Frank.

Prior to coming to California, Frank had planned on pursuing a career in law. But as the eldest, and only son, it was now his duty to take care of his mother.  Plans for a law career would be no more, and Frank would take a job as a clerk at Hale’s Bros Department Store in downtown San Jose. 


It was during those first years in San Jose that Frank contracted tuberculosis and was advised by his doctor to seek work in the outdoors.  

In 1876, the twice widowed Grace married Captain Joseph Aram. And just who was Captain Aram? Born in New York in 1810, Aram eventually moved to Illinois.  In 1846, during the Mexican-American War, he left Illinois and enlisted under the short lived Bear Flag Republic (June 14 – July 9, 1846).  That same year Major Fremont took control of California from the Bear Flag Republic and he sent Captain Aram to protect the settlers at the Santa Clara Mission.  Aram was also sent to Monterey to help construct a fort.  After the war he settled in San Jose.  

After the marriage of Grace and Captain Aram, the captain became very fond of his step-son Frank, influencing him greatly.  Jack Galante notes that it was probably the captain who first introduced Frank to the Monterey Peninsula. And this does make sense – as Aram was familiar with Monterey.    


By 1877, Frank had fallen in love.  The young woman three years his junior was Lillie Potter, a music student at the College of the Pacific in Santa Clara.  Frank and Lillie married in 1879.  

Jack states, “We aren’t sure where he [Frank] worked all those early years, but in that era, a conscientious young man did not assume the responsibilities of a wife and family until he was able to provide the necessary support; and a loving father did not allow his daughter to marry unless he was assured that his future son-in-law was able to do so.  So we have to assume that by age 23, he [Frank] was gainfully employed.  The earliest indication…found relating to his employment was an 1883 announcement, at age 27, of the opening of a subdivision in San Martin and Morgan Hill.  A. L. Burbank and J. F. Devendorf are listed as agents.” (1)

So from this we can conclude that Frank had gone into real estate in order to support the family that he and Lillie would soon have.  


Frank and Lillie had five daughters.  Their first daughter Grace died in childbirth.  Their second, Edwina was born deaf and mute in 1881.  She became an accomplished painter and sculptor. A bronze bust she made of her father resides in Devendorf Park.


Then came Myrtle. Their fourth daughter, Jack Galante’s grandmother, Lillian was born in 1890.  And finally Marion. Jack stated, that by the time his grandmother Lillian was born, the Devendorf family was quite prosperous.  By 1897 the family purchased a large home with verandas and expansive lawns high in the hills above Alum Rock Park.

And then came Carmel….”A town with a temperament wholly its own.” (3)

Jack Galante continued the story of his great-grandfather offering questions to provoke his audience’s imagination. 

“How can one describe Frank Devendorf – a visionary, an impractical dreamer, a gambler? Not a gambler in the ordinary sense of the word.  But he did gamble his family’s present and future security when he got rid of all his other assets and occupations and devoted himself entirely to the development of Carmel.  Certainly he was a visionary.  My grandmother [Lillian] recalled a historic picnic on a point of land on the Seventeen Mile Drive.  It was summer, 1900. Her father looked over at the curving white sand of Carmel Beach and said: “Girls, I’m going to build a town there!” (1)

The Devendorf – Powers Connection

Though it is not completely clear how Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers met, more information was discovered during Jack’s talk.  At the presentation Erin Gafil, great-great granddaughter of Frank and Jane Powers remarked that there is some documentation that the two of them, Devendorf and Powers, may have been neighbors at one point.  We will just have to wait for Erin’s talk, Part 2 of the Carmel Residents Associations Centennial Series, March 17th, to see what she may have uncovered. 

What Jack does go on to tell us is that Devendorf and Powers must have known each other by November 1900, because that was the month that Frank Powers purchased two of Frank Devendorf’s Carmel lots. Why would Frank Powers purchase lots in a relatively unknown village on the central coast?

To get the answer, we need to rewind one year to 1899 – when according to Kirk Gafill, (great-great-grandson of Frank Powers who spoke at the Centennial Launch January 8, 2016) Frank Powers had been given a piece of land in Carmel in 1899, in lieu of cash for a legal bill.


A short time later that same year, Frank Powers traveled to Carmel to check out his new property.  Kirk Gafill described the adventure at the Centennial Launch as follows: Frank “took the train down to Monterey, and the stage coach over what was then Monterey Hill…



and camped out by what was then the ruins of Carmel Mission.  He woke up in the morning with the fog, walked around the ruins,


wandered over through the pine trees down to the beach and saw the dunes and realized it was a very special place and in fact there was some value to the legal bill he had just collected on.” (2)

So, it appears that when Frank Powers purchased two of Frank Devendorf’s Carmel lots in 1900, he had already decided that there was something to this land in Carmel. And in fact that might be why Powers purchased another 702 Carmel lots from Dr. Walton Saunders the same year. Two years later, in 1902, Powers had amassed about 80% of the lots of Carmel.   
At the same time, by 1902 Frank Devendorf had sold the family house in Alum Rock Park and put all his assets into the development of Carmel. 



On November 28, 1902, Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers formed the Carmel Development Company and held their first Board Meeting.

Jack Galante went on to explain the two men’s agreement as follows,  “Devendorf proposed: to take charge of the property “in the same manner as I have had charge for Frank Powers, giving my entire time and attention toward the development of this property,” for 2 years for 25% of all sales of land made during this period.” (1)

Frank Devendorf was away from his wife and daughters much of the time during the early years of Carmel’s development.  After selling the house in Alum Rock, Frank moved Lillie and the girls into a rented house in Oakland. The post card below is postmarked from Carmel April 1909. Struggling at times with the residual effects of tuberculosis,  Frank wrote to Lillie, “I am better today and am trying to be careful.”  


Frank Devendorf had a love for trees and the beautiful environment of the Monterey Peninsula. (He may had picked this up from his step father Captain Joseph Aram who established the very first nursery in Santa Clara County before his death in 1898.) Frank is responsible for the row of pine trees down the middle of Ocean Avenue which can be seen in their infancy in the flyer put out by Carmel Development Company c. 1909 shown below.

Frank Devendorf envisioned Carmel as being a town for families, and that they would live “in full harmony with the keynote given by nature.”

In the first flyer put out by Carmel Development Company shown below, the character of Carmel residents is described as “college professors, artists, writers of all kinds, students of music and the arts in their various phases, naturally congregate here.  The surroundings are kept to invite them. More than a hundred of our residents are supported by the product of brush or pen or through music or lectures.” 


During the late teen years of the 1900’s, after Carmel had been established, Frank Devendorf focused his attention on the development of the Carmel Highlands.  By then his daughters were grown and Lillie was free to come and live with Frank in Carmel. They were finally able to enjoy an extended time together in Carmel.  For their next 15 or so years time was spent between development of properties in the Highlands, picnics and traveling.   

In the fall of 1934, Frank went out during a storm to find water for the Highlands property.  Though he was encouraged not to go, Frank went because he knew that the residents of the Highlands were depending upon him to secure water for the development. From this journey during the storm, Frank became ill and never recovered.  He passed away November 2, 1934. 


A few minutes after 6pm, Jack finished his fascinating presentation on his great-grandfather Frank Devendorf, thanked us for the opportunity to speak to us and to honor his family. 


Then invited us to a celebratory toast from one of Galante Vineyard or Dawn’s Dream Winery vintages.  Jack finally left us with this little bit of wisdom, “Always drink upstream from the herd!” – Yup, makes sense.
 
Adventures of A Home Town Tourist Centennial Index
Carmel-by-the-Sea official Centennial Website 
  __
(1) Excerpt from text of Jack Galante talk on his great-grandfather, James Franklin Devendorf, January 21, 2016 at the Sunset Center. Text courtesy of The Carmel Residents Association Presents “Reliving Our History,” The Centennial Series, Part 1:  Jack Galante on his great-grandfather, Frank Devendorf, The “Father of Carmel.” 

(2) Excerpt from talk by Kirk Gafill, great-great-grandson of Frank Powers given at the Centennial Launch, January 8, 2016 by the World War I Monument on Ocean and Junipero.

(3)  Excerpt from flyer from Carmel Development Company, c. 1909 taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

All pictures are by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below: 

Picture of James Franklin Devendorf as a child,
Picture of James Franklin Devendorf at age 21,
Picture of real estate listing,
Picture of Frank and Lillie’s daughters,
and Picture of Frank in front of Carmel Development Company 1905 all courtesy of The Carmel Residents Association Presents “Reliving Our History,” The Centennial Series, Part 1:  Jack Galante on his great-grandfather, Frank Devendorf, The “Father of Carmel.” 

Post card c. 1932 of Hale Bros. downtown San Jose from Plummer and Associates’ Blog.

Picture of Carmel Hill 1908 from Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Picture of Carmel Mission in ruins, c. 1880 from the City of Monterey, Colton Hall Museum. 

Post card from Frank Devendorf to Lillie taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Picture of Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers in a buggy – courtesy of Jack Galante and the Jane Galante Collection. 

Pictures of flyer from Carmel Development Company, c. 1909 taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

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Launch of the Carmel-by-the-Sea Centennial Celebration – January 8, 2016

Carmel-by-the-Sea
Centennial Celebration
Launch
January 8, 2016 
On a rather dreary Friday afternoon, Carmel-by-the-Sea Community Services was busy organizing the set up for Carmel’s Centennial Celebration Launch. Chairs were set up in the middle of a busy downtown intersection. 

Not to worry though, Ocean Avenue remained open, but was marked down to one lane each way past the historic World War I Memorial Arch.


By 2:45pm Carmelites began to gather 

staking their claim to the best seating. 

Long time Carmelites, special guests,
and dignitaries arrived. 


Kirk Gafill, great-great-grandson of Frank Powers
 and Jack Galante, great-grandson of Frank Devendorf discussed their upcoming remarks.

Frank Devendorf kept watch on the festivities
 from the label of his great-grandsons

centennial vintage.

Standing next to the special “big reveal,”
Channel 8 News Anchor, Lauren Seaver,
 was on the scene with her cameraman. 



Not missing a beat she caught a quick interview with
Carmel-by-the-Sea Mayor Jason Burnett, 


and Congressman Sam Farr.That is 
Historic Resources Board Member
Elinor Laiolo finding her seat in the background

 Carmel Councilman Ken Talmage and long time Carmelite Cindy Lloyd arrived, while Centennial Committee member and former mayor of Carmel Sue McCloud and Jack Galante reviewed last minute notes.  
There is new Carmelite and long time County Supervior
 Dave Potter as well as  City Councilwoman Carrie Theis.
As the audience grew, 


and grew,  I spied Carmel Heritage Society Vice-President
 Carl Iverson, former 
 Carmel mayor Ken White and under that black fedora former Carmel mayor Charlotte Townsend. 

It’s almost time – Sue McCloud greeted
Congressman Sam Farr and 

Centennial Committee members Merv Sutton
 and Barbara Livingston were seated. 


Chief of Police and temporary
City Administrator
Mike Calhoun is in the house. 



A dreary Friday afternoon won’t keep Carmelites from 
celebrating. It’ 3:00 pm time to get this party started!! 

Make sure to check the Centennial Website frequently
for details about the 100 events planned for Carmel’s hundredth year and enjoy the following 20 minute video of the highlights of the Centennial Launch.  


Adventures of A Home Town Tourist Centennial Index

Carmel-by-the-Sea official Centennial Website __
Pictures and video by – L A Momboisse http://www.carmelbytheseaca.blogspot.com 

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Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part I – Scenic Bluff Pathway Along Carmel Beach

Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part I 

Scenic Bluff Pathway Along Carmel Beach
1 mile 

Those who visit our village may only have a few hours to spend in Carmel-by-the-Sea.  Some enjoy shopping, some love to eat, others enjoy a walk.  The Scenic Loop Walking Tour is a series of two blog posts.  They are a self-guided walking tour of what I believe feature three miles of natures most impressive beauty.  If time does not permit, this first part can be walked as 1 1/2 miles round trip – Just turn around at the new restrooms on Santa Lucia and Scenic where this blog ends.


So that you are not constrained by the two hour parking limit in town,  I suggest you park in the parking lot at the end of Ocean Avenue by Carmel Beach.  There is no time limit here on parking during the day.  


There are three public restrooms along this walking tour. One at the beginning, base of Ocean Avenue, at the end of Part 1 at Santa Lucia and Scenic, and next to the parking lot at Carmel River Beach.   

This walk is fairly level but weather conditions can be windy and cold.  A windbreaker or sweater is recommended, dark glasses, camera, and binoculars are useful.

Follow along on this google map which marks highlights of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea.  


Start this walk at the Carmel North Dunes Habitat Restoration Site (northwest corner of Ocean and San Antonio* next to the Carmel Beach parking lot) under one of Carmel’s heritage trees, a Blue Gum Eucalyptus. 

This tree, the largest in the Village, (the trunk measures over 22 feet around) just underwent a haircut in readiness for (hopefully) the impending El Nino.  This Eucalyptus is thought to have been planted in the 1850’s. 


Before we continue on to Carmel Beach take a moment to look beyond the ropes at the Habitat Restoration project. The Carmel-by-the-Sea Garden Club began this project in 2009 to “correct a century of  human disturbance which had greatly affected the natural state of the dunes.”

The non-native and invasive ice plant was removed.  Though the battle continues – as ice plant pushes through the native Pacific Dune Grass shown below.


With the ice plant gone (for the most part) the natural dune plants have begun to reappear.  For the majority of the year I have to say the natural dune plants are not much to look at. Still I understand and embrace the concept – at least in small doses.  

At times during the spring, summer, and fall we now see glimpses of native plants, delicate Pink, 


and Yellow Sand Verbena, 


Beach Evening Primrose,



and the Dune Sagewort. 

Continue your walk down Ocean Avenue toward the ocean. After the restrooms, follow the boardwalk past the Ghost Tree (a dead Monterey Cypress planted early in the 1900’s)


to the Carmel Beach Overlook.  


Take in the unobstructed view of Pebble Beach to the north (shown below) and south to Point Lobos.


Walk, back tracking to the parking lot and cross the street following the brick path to the south side of Ocean Avenue.


Here you will find a unique rusted steel sculpture attached to the fence.


This is actually the second sculpture at this location, the first one designed by Mark Periman was damaged over the years and replaced in 2005 with this one by artist Michael Largent.
For fellow Geocachers, (I know you are out there) this is the site of one of our numerous caches in town, called The End of Ocean Avenue

Continue one block back toward town to Scenic Drive.  On the southeast corner is a large Spanish style home.  


In 1937 this two story home was built for the President of Zellerbach Paper Company, Harold Lionel Zellerbach. Harold’s grandfather, Anthony Zellerbach founded the paper company in 1868. 

 Continue south along Scenic Drive to Eighth Avenue.  


It is here you will start the walk along the Scenic Bluff Pathway which parallels Scenic Road on the bluffs above Carmel Beach.

Just in case you are interested, here is a little background on how the Scenic Bluff Pathway came to be.  


In March of 1983 a disastrous storm (part of the 1982-83 very strong El Nino weather system) thundered through Monterey County. Almost overnight the beach slopes along Carmel Beach became beach cliffs.  Sixteen large cypress trees fell and five beach stairways were damaged.  Four of which were reduced to rubble. 

In 1983, Mayor Charlotte Townsend formed the Beach Task Force to clean up the damage.  Phase I completed in 1985, consisted of beach clean-up, installation of long-term stabilization of the bluffs, and a new storm drain system.  The cost, $816,283.  

In January 1988, under Mayor Clint Eastwood, City Council approved the work for Phase II which would include a decomposed granite bluff-top walkway beginning at Eighth Avenue and ending at Santa Lucia, reconstruction of five stairways, addition of handicapped ramps, benches, landscaping and irrigation.  The cost, $825,000.  


Mayor Jean Grace, who had worked on the Beach Task Force before becoming mayor, cut the ribbon for the walkway in June 1988.  It had taken five years but Scenic Bluff Walkway was finally open. This pathway, marked by the blue and silver ocean sign, is a small section of the 1,200 mile California Coastal Trail from Oregon to Mexico. 
  

While  you enjoy the beauty of this first half mile, here are a few things to keep an eye out for.

If you are able to take your eyes off the breathtaking beauty of Carmel Beach, the houses that line Scenic are quite stunning themselves. We have many styles, no tract housing here, and some have had famous residents. 


The three story Spanish Eclectic style home, with the massive brick chimney named Anything Goes**, was the home of Richard Cox.
Richard was born in Carmel in 1930, his father Elmer was a WWI veteran, his mother the silent film actress Ruth Powell. Richard majored in Drama at Stanford and took the stage name Dick Sargent. For those of my generation we remember Richard as Darrin Stephens from the TV show Bewitched.  
Just after the Ninth Avenue pass-through to San Antonio Avenue is Las Ondas, a three story house with tile roof. Built in 1933, this was the home of former Carmel mayor, Clint Eastwood during the 1980’s and 90’s.  The name Las Ondas is visible on the gate on San Antonio Street which you will pass on Part 2 of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour.
In the next block (between Ninth and Tenth Avenues) there is a proliferation of mid-century modern homes.  This style has grown on me over the years.  Ad Tearman a 1,950 square foot Japanese-style two-story wood home was featured in the January 2011 Architectural Digest.  Here is a slide show of the interior.      
Between Twelfth and Thirteenth look for the white stucco cottage with tile roof named Periwinkle and Sea Urchin. They were originally built in 1915 as two fisherman’s huts. Between 1930 and 1981, five different additions and renovations were made to the dwellings.  My mother told me stories of visiting them in the 1930’s. I took the picture below in the 1990’s when the homes were still divided as two separate units. 
In 2000 Periwinkle and Sea Urchin were united as one by a hall. You can see this in the picture below. 
  
At Thirteenth Avenue Carmel stone stairs lead to Cooke’s Cove. 

Named after the MacGowan – Cooke sisters who lived in the large Tudor style residence two blocks east of the cove on Thirteenth.

Alice MacGowan and Grace MacGowan Cooke came to Carmel in 1908, prior to that they lived in Helicon Hall, in Englewood, New Jersey.  Helicon Hall was a social experiment in socialist living designed by Upton Sinclair which burnt down five months after its inception.

After the failed experiment, Sinclair Lewis came to Carmel, and the MacGowan sisters followed.  They purchased the large home, which was built in 1905, on the bluff above the cove.  At the time, it was the only house in the area. In Part 2 of this walking tour we will have a chance to see their house. But for now we continue south on the Scenic Bluff Walkway to Santa Lucia and Carmel’s newest public restroom.

As with everything in Carmel, things take time.  Our new restrooms began life in 1991 as a suggestion by the 2016 Centennial Committee. Twenty-three years after the suggestion, in December of 2014 they opened to the public.

Built to blend in with the architecture and geography of Scenic Road they are hardly visible from the beach level or Street level. Cost to the village $595,000.

This is where we leave off Part 1 of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour. Part 2 will loop around Carmel Point to Carmel River Beach and back to the Carmel Beach parking lot via San Antonio Avenue.

___

* Carmel-by-the-Sea does not have addresses we have coordinates.
** Many houses in Carmel-by-the-Sea are referred to by their name.


All photography by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Black and white photo of Mayor Eastwood’s swearing in, from Carmel Magazine, Spring/Summer 2012. 

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Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part 2 – Scenic Road around Carmel Point pass River Beach, to Carmelo Street and San Antonio Avenue

Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part 2 

Scenic Road around Carmel Point
Pass River Beach, to Carmelo Street
 and San Antonio Avenue
2 miles


Part 2 of the Scenic Loop begins at the new public restroom at Scenic and Santa Lucia. This portion of the tour is 2 miles and will take us around Carmel Point, past Carmel River Beach and Wetlands, over to San Antonio Road and back to the Blue Gum Eucalyptus at the northwest Corner of Ocean and San Antonio where our walking tour began.  You may follow this walk on Google Map.


We are at the south end of Carmel Beach.  Take a moment to look back at where you have been. Straight across Carmel Bay is Pescadero Point, the Lodge at Pebble Beach, and the Pebble Beach Golf Course.  


Very shortly you will have a glimpse of the north side of a house built by Frank Lloyd Wright. Mr. Wright was in his 80’s when he took on this project.  It took him five years to build and it was completed in 1952. 


Periodically this home is included on the Carmel Heritage Society annual June House and Garden Tour. I have had the privilege to tour the inside on many occasions.  More pictures and history can be found at my blog post here.  

At 26085 Scenic take notice of the two story modern Pueblo style house named Cimarron. According to Carmel lore, Hollywood actor Richard Dix built a Taos style adobe on the property in 1929 and named it after his film Cimarron which was released in 1931.  

  

In 1937 the property was sold to Gustav Lannestock, a Swedish emigrant who made his living, building, writing and translating.

Quite the socialites, Gustav and his wife Lucille nightly hosted 5:00 p.m. cocktail hour for anyone who was walking by their home.  The casual gatherings were frequented by local authors John Steinbeck, and Robinson Jeffers.

In 1949 Swedish writer Vilhelm Moberg happened to walk by. Moberg had just begun writing a novel entitled Emigrants. The Swedes became fast friends and Lannestock would end up translating the four book series of Emigrants from Swedish to English.  To complete the Hollywood full circle, Moberg’s novels would be made into two Warner Bros movies, The Emigrants and The New Land.  


Before walking on take in the view from the front of Cimarron of the crescent shaped Carmel Beach, Carmel Dunes, and Pebble Beach Golf Course.  


On the corner of Scenic and Martin you can’t miss the stone castle style house with false thatch roof. 


This home, built in 1993, looks larger than it is – at two bedrooms and two baths this house measures out
 at under 1,600 square feet.  


Across the street is the gate to the Frank Lloyd Wright house, one of only five homes built on the beach side of Scenic.  

Just past the fence and a set of mail boxes near the Frank Lloyd Wright house is a well worn path to the beach.  There are no steps so this does require climbing down and up an unstable bluff through ice plant. 


If the tide is out and you feel that you are capable of the climb it is worth it.  But use caution if climbing on the rocks and Never Turn Your Back On The Ocean

There are two rock houses right before making the curve around the rocky point ahead.  The first one with the tile roof, 26183 Scenic, was built in 2003.  This two bedroom, two bathroom sold  for a cool $11,950,000 in 2004. 

The second one called Pack’s Point of View, (that must be Pack looking over the fence below) was built in 2001. 

This five bedroom house sold in 2003 for $7,100,000.  An old Coldwell Banker listing showed this interior picture below. 
Time to take a look back at where you have been. Those are the Ocean Avenue Dunes to the farthest left of the picture below. We were there about 45 minutes ago when we took in the Carmel Beach Overlook!

A few yards ahead on our walk is a bend in Scenic Road.  At the bend is a stone wall with stairs that lead down to the Bay and Scenic Station for Carmel Area Wastewater District. 


There is some Carmel lore regarding a tunnel that once went from this wall to the basement of the Edward Kuster house on Ocean View Avenue in the 1920’s.  If you are standing by the wall just turn around and look up.  You can’t miss the Kuster Castle.


Edward Kuster (founder of the Golden Bough Theater in 1924) was the first husband of Una Jeffers. They divorced in 1913. Both remarried, (Una to Robinson Jeffers) but remained friends.  Such good friends that in 1920 Edward would built his house in Carmel just down the street from Una’s Tor House.  

The next half mile of coast to the Carmel Point Curve is rocky and wild.  There are many great areas for tide-pooling along this part of the walk.  But do so with great caution!!


As you round the point you can’t miss this European style 6,900 square foot home.  It happens to be the dream home of my very best friend.  Every time we walk by she imagines herself living in it. I have put her on notice to start saving her lunch money as it just came on the market for $13,750,000.  

As Scenic Road’s rocky coast line continues look off to the right at 
the rugged coast of Point Lobos State Reserve.  
Which is an adventure for another day. 

That set of rocks a few hundred yards from land is Carmel Point’s version of the 17 Mile Drive Bird Rock. With binoculars you can usually find a few Brandt’s Cormorant’s and Brown Pelican’s hanging out.   



Before going any further take a look back at where you have been.  In the distance is Pescadero Point just north of Pebble Beach.  


A bit further down Scenic, just before arriving at the intersection of Stewart Way look to your left to see Tor House and Hawk Tower, built in 1919 for Robinson and Una Jeffers. 

Once a year, the first Saturday in May, the Tor House Foundation holds their annual Garden Party.  This is the only time when photography is allowed on the property.  

Robinson Jeffers built Tor House and Hawk Tower with stones from the beach directly below the property.  Look to you right to see this beach.  This cove is very popular for scuba divers. 


Just above the cove is the iconic Butterfly House, built in 1952 by Frank Wynkoop. This 2,800 square foot house last sold in 2013 for $16,500,000. It is currently undergoing a major renovation.   

 In less than a tenth of a mile we arrive at the
 Carmel Point Curve.


It is hard to believe that at one time, Scenic Road was two way.  In 1965, my brother Dana learned to drive our station wagon on this road.  He took the curve wide hugging the edge every time just to scare my mom and I.  


Just around the curve, through the winter bloom of the Candelabra Plant, (aloe arborescens) you will get your first view of Carmel River Beach.  In one more week those spikes will pop bright red!!!

In 1602 when three Carmelite Friers were exploring this area with Viszcaino Expedition, they named this area El Rio Carmelo.  As it reminded them of their original Carmelilte Monestary at the foot of Mount Carmel in Palestine. It is from the name of this river that Carmel-by-the-Sea gets her name


Carmel River Beach has an extremely dangerous undertow. If you walk this beach stay out of the water.

When I was a young girl, my brother and I would bring our green plastic row boat down to the river to play.  When we left for the day, my mom would say, “stay away from the ocean side the tow will kill you.”  Somehow my brother and I listened to that wisdom and set our boat off on the river side for hours of adventures in the tule reeds. 


The Scenic Drive we have followed for the last two miles ends at the entrance to Carmel River Beach and Wetlands.


  There is a restroom just off the parking lot.

 Now focus your attention ahead (south) down the center of the sand bar toward Carmel Meadows.  This sand bar between the ocean and Carmel River and Wetlands is an ever changing landscape.   The picture above was taken in December 2015, the picture below April 2013.

If time permits and the sandbar is passable the Hike to Portola Crespi Cross in Carmel Meadows is a great add on to this hike.  I believe the best time to make the Portola Crespi Cross Hike is during wildflower season, and I am counting on this wildflower season to be stellar. 


A few interesting shore birds at the Carmel River Wetlands entertain the amateur birder in me (happily I am easily entertained). Like the group of Snowy Plovers I accidentally scared above and the solitary Snowy Egret below. 


Visible across the wetlands just above the tule reeds, 


are the Meadowview Triplex rooms of Mission Ranch.


For my fellow Geocachers pick up Kate’s Kache before leaving Carmel River Beach.  

 When you leave Carmel River Beach
you will be walking north along Carmelo Street.


Our last mile of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour returns to the Carmel Beach Ocean Avenue Parking Lot via residential streets.


Just a few houses past the wetlands on your right is an ultra modern stone and steel home at 26362 Carmelo.   

In 2009 the owners of this property hired local architect David Martin to completely remodel of what was their simple ranch style home. The only surviving feature from the old property is the majestic mayten tree in the front yard.  I had the privilege to tour this home during the 2015 Carmel Bach Festival Cottages, Gardens & Cantatas. 

If you would like to go beyond the steel and glass door, see my blog post here and scroll to the Cooperman Home.  


A block further on the left are four quaint cottages named after Robin Hood and his friends.  Built in the 1920’s, the Lincoln Green Inn at 26362 Carmelo was the first hotel built to serve guests on Carmel Point. 

Just past the Lincoln Green Inn turn left on Fifteenth Avenue and right on South San Antonio Avenue. 


On the southeast corner of South San Antonio and Fourteenth Avenue is a tiny gray and red cottage. This cottage began life around 1910 as a studio for writer John Fleming Wilson.

In 1912 Philip Wilson Sr.(no relation) purchased the small writers studio and converted it into a club house for the nine hole golf course he built on Point Loeb (now Carmel Point). The picture below shows the Club House in 1914. 


At the onset of World War I, Philip Wilson Sr. was called to service and the golf course was abandoned.  The land was later subdivided and in 1990  a one bedroom house was built on the property – integrating the old Club House into the home as a living room.  

In 2015 the current owners (also owners of Carmel Cottage Inn which we will pass shortly on our walking tour) removed the addition and restored the Club House to its original size, even maintaining the original fireplace and interior siding. 

The Club House is now called the Golf House and now happily acts as a guest cottage for the newly built main house to its north. To see the inside of these houses see my blog post on the 2015 Carmel Heritage Society House and Garden Tour.  It is the third house reviewed in the post. 


Now back to our walk. At Santa Lucia Avenue make a right and then a quick left back on to San Antonio.


At Thirteenth and San Antonio look east up Thirteenth Street to view the MacGowan-Cooke house which I discussed in Part 1.  

Cooke’s Cove on Carmel Beach at Thirteenth is named after sisters Alice MacGowan and Grace MacGowan Cooke.  
Over the course of the next seven blocks from Thirteenth Avenue to Ocean Avenue you may either take one of the “cut through” paths (on the west side of the street) back down to Scenic and walk Scenic back to Ocean Avenue or stay on San Antonio and walk a small area of  residential Carmel known as the Golden Rectangle.

If you stay on San Antonio you are in for a treat as every home is unique. Many feature creative names such as Deamcatcher, Beach Therapy, My Rx or 

Surf’s Up. Names take the place of address numbers in the village.   
 There are small cottages, 

 
numerous custom builds 

in all architectural and 


whimsical styles. 


Of course we also have plenty of historical homes and inns on San Antonio.  Keep your eye out for Braemar on the east side just south of Ninth Avenue.

This Craftsman style bungalow was built around 1921 by one of Carmel’s early master builders, M. J. Murphy.  I toured this house during a Bach Festival House and Garden Tour, you may view more of the grounds at this site.  

Just after Eighth Avenue look for the Carmel Cottage Inn on the east side of San Antonio. These are five historical homes lovingly restored and graciously run as an inn by innkeeper and friend Cheryl Assemi. 
 I have toured and photographed this property numerous times. One of my absolute favorites, see this blog post for more pictures of the property inside and out.  Just scroll past Hob Nob.   


If only the ground in Carmel could talk, this property would have stories to tell.  Midway between Ocean and Seventh on the east side lived Lincoln Steffens, described by Carmel author Alissandra Dramov, as a “muckraking journalist, author, Socialist, and political activist.” (1)

Born in 1866, Lincoln Steffens studied at Berkeley, served as a reporter for the Evening Post in New York in 1892, and was editor of McClure’s Magazine in 1901.

In 1927 Steffens purchased the six year old house that sat on the property 4 southeast of Ocean. It became known as Getaway, and had many famous visitors: Robinson Jeffers, Gertrude Stein, Carl Sandburg, Langston Hughes, and John Steinbeck among others.        


In 1967 the Sigma Delta Chi Professional Journalistic Society honored the site of Steffens home with the stone plaque pictured above.  In 1989 the property was sold for $975,000 and the new owners completed a major remodel, addition and reconstruction to the original home two years later.


  The current residence, now called Meremar, hardly resembles the Steffens home of the 1920’s and 30’s. 

At the next corner notice the French country style


 Ocean’s End


and you are back to the Blue Gum Eucalyptus where our Scenic Loop Walking Tour began. 

Until our next Adventure of a Home Town Tourist, keep on exploring!

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All pictures by L. A. Momboisse except those listed below: 

Black and white photo of Cimarron – Carmel Magazine, Summer/Fall 2013, page 87.

Black and white photo of the Golf House as the Club House in 1914 – Courtesy of Harrison Memorial History Library. 

(1) Dramov, Alissandra. Carmel-by-the-Sea, The Early Years (1903-1913). Author House, 2012. p.149.
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17th Annual Carmel Heritage Society Inns of Distinction – 2015 – Part 1 First Murphy House and La Playa Carmel

Carmel Heritage Society
“It’s Ours to Protect” 

The Valentine’s, a charming elderly couple, have been sitting on the bench just north of the recently renovated First Murphy Park since 1994. Oh the stories they tell about their years as Carmelites. Make sure to say hello as you pass by on your way to 

First Murphy House where the 17th Annual Carmel HeritageSociety Inns of Distinction begins.  


First Murphy House, home to the Carmel Heritage Society, was built in 1902 by Carmel masterbuilder, Michael J. Murphy. The house is currently decorated for the holidays. 


I hope that you took a good look around when you picked up your ticket and wine glass for the Inns Tour 
because when it reopens next February it will look quite a bit different, as an exciting new exhibit is planned for First Murphy House for Carmel’s Centennial. 

This year’s Inns of Distinction highlights eight of Carmel’s finest inns and hotels.  Each festively decorated inn featured a local restaurant for light bites and a local winery for wine tasting.  For the $30 price tag, it is one of the best deals in town.  (I always come home with coupons for restaurants and wine rooms that exceed the price of my ticket!)  And word has definitely gotten out – ticket sales were the highest to date for this event! So come along while I give the history of each inn and describe in words and pictures the 17th Annual Carmel Heritage Society Inns of Distinction.

The La Playa Carmel 
Camino Real & Eighth Avenue 
Amenities: Complimentary Breakfast Buffet, 
Ocean View Rooms, Pool


Known as the Grand Dame of Carmel hotels, the La Playa Carmel has long time ties to some famous Carmelites. 

Christian Jorgensen a native of Oslo, Norway, was born in 1860.  At the age of 14, he came to San Francisco and was “discovered” by artist Virgil Williams as he sketched a San Francisco cityscape. 

Jorgensen, the first person to receive a scholarship to the California School of Fine Arts, would become an art instructor at the school after his graduation.  It was in one of his classes that he met his future wife, Angela (chocolate heiress) Ghirardelli.  After they married in 1883 they spend years traveling the roads of California.  A fascination with the California Missions would entice Christian to capture all 21 of the missions on canvas.  

The Jorgenson’s came to Carmel-by-the-Sea in 1905.  It took them two years to build their home/studio on the southwest corner of Camino Real and Eighth Avenue. The picture below shows the house c. 1907.


In 1909, Alida Ghirardelli, daughter of Angela’s favorite brother, drowned in Carmel Bay.  (Others have reported that it was Angela who drowned, but it was not, as Angela outlived her husband Christopher by six months dying in January of 1936.)


In 1911, the Jorgenson family leased some of the rooms of their home to Agnes Signor, manager of the Carmel Bathhouse, for use as a boarding house. Shortly thereafter, Signor purchased the Jorgenson home and with the help of her nephews, Harrison and Frederick Godwin, set about to make this property into a fashionable hotel.  The La Playa Hotel opened in 1920.
After their aunt’s death, the Godwin brothers became the owners of the La Playa Hotel.  They spent $34,500 in restoration after a devastating fire destroyed most of the property in December of 1924. 

In 1930, Fred Godwin bought out his brother and would become the sole owner until 1963.  Fred Godwin would also serve as mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea from 1946 to 1950. 

The La Playa was one of several hotels favored by Apple founder Steve Jobs for offsite meetings. Jobs booked the hotel for a team retreat in January of 1983. It is said that a prototype of the Macintosh computer was unveiled during this retreat and christened with a bottle of La Playa water. It was also during this retreat that a few other Apple secrets were revealed. 

During the retreat members of the Apple team decided to celebrate the Macintosh prototype by skinny-dipping in the La Playa pool.  For this transgression, further Apple retreats were banned from the La Playa forever! Almost. 

In 2011 the La Playa was purchased by Grossman Company Properties and Classic Hotels and Resorts and renovated at the cost of $3.5 million.  The La Playa Carmel reopened in August 2012. In 2013, the ban was lifted and Apple welcomed back.  

On the day of the Inns of Distinction Tour, I pass the quatrefoil stained glass window designed by Jorgensen to imitate the window at Carmel Mission,

walk through the entry,


to the front lobby.  I notice the Carmel Centennial Lanterns decorating glass tables throughout the hotel.  


These lanterns, developed and sold by the Carmel Chamber in celebration of Carmel’s upcoming Centennial October 16, 2016, are reminiscent of a simpler time – when Carmelites would use tin cans with candles to light their way home at night. 

Today we use flashlights.

In the Library, where a Champagne breakfast buffet is served daily to hotel guests,


 tasty desserts are set out for the Inns Tour. 

  

The La Playa Carmel kitchen provided the hot chocolate, apple cider, brownies, cookies,
 and individual Pumpkin Cheese Cakes Bites. 

Paris Bakery offered the bite-size fruit tart, marzipan, and petit-fore cakes.


Local tasting room, Windy Oaks  

poured a 2013 Night Owl Red, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre and a 2014 Windy Oaks Pinot Gris from Meador Vineyard in Monterey, County.  
Time to enjoy these treats on the Pacific Terrace overlooking Carmel Bay.
My favorite spot by the fire pit is already taken.  
Two rooms have been graciously opened for Inns of Distinction tour ticket holders to view at La Playa Carmel.  When I say graciously, I mean it.  Each inn on this tour sets aside rooms that they could otherwise sell for lodging on the day of the tour.  This tour is from 2pm to 5pm so it is possible that rooms might still be rented out for the night. But doing so would require a lot of extra work by the hotel staff. Carmel Heritage is very thankful to all the inns that set aside their rooms and time to make this tour possible. 
Village View Room 206 


Ocean View Room 205 


At 2:15pm, the fog is already rolling in – pressing my camera in between the blinds, my shot just misses the  dolphins “porpoising” in the waves. You will just have to imagine…


Next up Part 2 and Happy Landing Inn.  For a map of this years tour and the location of all restaurants and wine rooms which provided food and wine for our tour please visit this google map

Below is a video of all the venues. 



___ 

All pictures by L. A. Momboisse except for those listed below:
Picture of Christian Jorgensen – California State Parks Museum Collection 
First black and white picture of La Playa from Harrison Memorial Library History Branch.
Second black and white picture of the La Playa taken from a picture on the wall inside the La Playa Carmel hotel.
Third 
black and white picture of La Playa from Harrison Memorial Library History Branch.  


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17th Annual Carmel Heritage Society Inns of Distinction – 2015 – Part 5 – Carriage House Inn, and Tradewinds,

The next inn on our tour is Carriage House Inn.  I toured this inn in 2013 and what a difference two years has made.  All rooms have been completely updated.  The French country look from 2013 has been replaced with a fresh, clean color palette which gives the guest rooms a more modern and elegant look. 


Carriage House Inn 
Junipero between Seventh and Eighth
Attributes:  Breakfast delivered to your room,
Evening wine served in the library,
On site parking


Of all the hotels we tour this year, Carriage House Inn is the youngest.  Built in 1980, Carriage House Inn is just one block from Ocean Avenue and Carmel Plaza’s restaurants, coffee houses, wine rooms, and shopping.  

The Firok Shield Family have three downtown restaurants, Bistro Beaujolais in the Carmel Plaza, da Giovanni on Lincoln, and Carmel Bistro on San Carlos. At Carriage House Inn we are treated to Firok Shield’s delicious specialty Clam Chowder and Pasta Mamma Mia from the Bistro Giovanni dinner menu.  


Our wine tasting from J. Lohr Vineyards Monterey vineyards featured a 2012 J. Lohr Highlands Bench Pinot Noir , 2013 J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay, and 2012 J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our tour included a view of two ground floor Deluxe Guestrooms.  Room 5 and 10 both feature vaulted ceilings with a king bed, 

 window seat, 

fireplace, 

and over-sized jetted tub with combination shower.   

With less than 15 minutes on the Inns of Distinction clock I still have one more inn to view, Tradewinds Carmel located at the north end of town.

Tradewinds Carmel 
Mission Street between 4th and 3rd Avenue
Carmel-by-the-Sea
Attributes: Breakfast, Ocean Views,
Pet Friendly Rooms, On Site Parking


Tradewinds Carmel, the second youngest hotel on the 2015 tour, was designed and built by Richard and Patricia Catlin in 1959. The Catlin’s, inspired by their trips to Japan and southeast Asia, designed the rooms and grounds with architectural features and landscaping reminiscent of their travels. 

The photo above shows the front of the hotel shortly after opening in 1959, and the photo below a typical room. 



In 1998, the Catlin’s daughter Susan Stillwell took over Tradewinds and gave it a major renovation with the help of designer Charles Gruwell who is best known for his work on the Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas.  
The original courtyard contained a rarely used swimming pool which can be seen in this old photograph shown below. 

By the time I arrived at Tradewinds on the day of the tour (just a few minutes before 5pm) the fog had rolled in, and there was a gentle mist falling.  I decided to come back the following day to take pictures of the courtyard when the light was better.  

The following day, Sweetie, Tradewinds resident feline met me in front of the hotel.  

Intent on giving me a grand tour, Sweetie poised perfectly whenever I pulled out my camera.  Anyway, back to the history of Tradewinds Carmel.  Charles Gruwell’s major renovation was removing the old pool and replacing it with 

a multilevel Balinese and Asian inspired
courtyard with lush foliage,
 fire pit,
  lanterns,
 torches,
 stone walls,

reading areas, 
a terraced water feature,
and a Buddha water feature. 
Tradewinds Carmel was featured in the November 2004 issue of Architectural Digest as one of the most glamorous hotels, and in Forbes Travel Guide as one of the best small hotels.

By the time I arrived at Tradewinds, the homemade Pâté du Jour provided by L’Escargot has been devoured leaving nothing but crumbs on the plates.  
Checking in with the server from Dawn’s Dream Winery I was pleased that there was just enough of the 2014 Sargenti Chardonnay left for a tasting.  A perfect ending to my afternoon of tasting. 

As daylight began to fade, and a light mist fell, 


the lanterns, and tiki torches were lit.   

Two upstairs rooms were open for viewing.  The first a Deluxe Queen, Room 24 featured two queen beds, 

large bathroom with soaking tub/shower combination, 


and sitting area.   

Deluxe View King Room 19
features exceptional views of Point Lobos
from the large balcony, 
large bathroom with tub and shower, 
fireplace, wetbar, 

and soothing water feature.

That is the end of the 17th Annual Carmel Heritage Society Inns of Distinction Tour.  Please visit the Carmel Heritage Society  website for news of their upcoming tours for 2016, Carmel’s Centennial year.  Their very popular Home and Garden Tour will be in June 2016 and the 18th Annual Inns Tour December 2016.  



For a map of this years tour and the location of all restaurants and wine rooms which provided food and wine for our tour please visit this google map
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Photos
All photos and video taken by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Three old photos of the Tradewinds Hotel were taken from pictures displayed on the wall in the Catlin dining room at the Tradewinds Hotel.  
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Self – Guided Walking Tours Carmel-by-the-Sea

Self-Guided Walking Tours
Carmel-by-the-Sea

Here is a list of blog posts that I have done over the years on self-guided walking tours around Carmel-by-the-Sea. Whether you have one hour or a full day you will find there are many places to explore in this small town.

Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour Part 1
Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour Part 2

Carmel-by-the-Sea Jane Powers Walkway Loop Walking Tour (includes Carmel Beach) Part 1
Carmel-by-the-Sea Jane Powers Walkway Loop Walking Tour (includes Carmel Beach) Part 2

Mission Trail Nature Preserve/Flanders Mansion – Part 1 
Mission Trail Nature Preserve/Flanders Mansion – Part 2


Portola Crespi Cross/Carmel River Beach Hike


Garzas Park Canyon Hike/Wildflower Season


Historical Hill District Fairy Tale House Walk


Walking Tour of Ocean Avenue/History & Shopping 
Walking Tour of Ocean Avenue to Carmel Beach Overlook


Wine Tasting Carmel-by-the-Sea Walking Tour
Wine Tasting Carmel-by-the Sea Wine Walk


Point Sur Lighthouse Walking Tour – Part 1
Point Sur Lighthouse Walking Tour – Part 2


Friends of the Forest Carmel Tree Tour – 2014 
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