Carmel-by-the-Sea Centennial 1916 – 2016

Carmel-by-the-Sea is celebrating its centennial year with a variety of events that will span the entire year. This post will act as an index for blog posts written about those events. So come along on a year of adventures with a home town tourist! 

The Centennial Launch – January 8, 2016

CRA Centennial Series Program One: James Frank Devendorf –  January 21, 2016  

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Centennial Logo – Centennial Web Site 

Carmel-by-the-Sea – Carmel Residents Association Centennial Series Program One – Jack Galante on James Franklin Devendorf

Carmel-by-the-Sea
Carmel Residents Association
Jack Galante on James Franklin Devendorf:
The Man and The Vision  

Jack Galante, great-grandson of James Franklin Devendorf, kicked off Carmel Residents Associations “Reliving Our History” Centennial Series January 21, 2016.  

Owner, along with his wife Dawn, of Galante Vineyards and Dawn’s Dream Winery, Jack was quite at ease in front of the standing room only audience filling Carpenter Hall at Sunset Center.  For an hour he entertained us with stories and pictures that left us all with an intimate image of his great-grandfather.

James Franklin Devendorf
(1856-1934)

James Franklin (Frank) Devendorf was born  April 6, 1856 in Fallsburg, Michigan, the third child of Thomas Jefferson Devendorf and Grace Congdon Devendorf.  When Frank was three, his father was “killed by a car.”  Our speaker Jack Galante is quick to tell us that this undoubtedly was a train car since the automobile had not been invented.  

In 1864, the widowed Grace married  Methodist preacher, A. W. Gray, and moved out west. By 1874 Gray had died and left Grace once again widowed.  Unable to support herself, she sent for her 18 year old son Frank.

Prior to coming to California, Frank had planned on pursuing a career in law. But as the eldest, and only son, it was now his duty to take care of his mother.  Plans for a law career would be no more, and Frank would take a job as a clerk at Hale’s Bros Department Store in downtown San Jose. 

It was during those first years in San Jose that Frank contracted tuberculosis and was advised by his doctor to seek work in the outdoors.  

In 1876, the twice widowed Grace married Captain Joseph Aram. And just who was Captain Aram? Born in New York in 1810, Aram eventually moved to Illinois.  In 1846, during the Mexican-American War, he left Illinois and enlisted under the short lived Bear Flag Republic (June 14 – July 9, 1846).  That same year Major Fremont took control of California from the Bear Flag Republic and he sent Captain Aram to protect the settlers at the Santa Clara Mission.  Aram was also sent to Monterey to help construct a fort.  After the war he settled in San Jose.  

After the marriage of Grace and Captain Aram, the captain became very fond of his step-son Frank, influencing him greatly.  Jack Galante notes that it was probably the captain who first introduced Frank to the Monterey Peninsula. And this does make sense – as Aram was familiar with Monterey.    

By 1877, Frank had fallen in love.  The young woman three years his junior was Lillie Potter, a music student at the College of the Pacific in Santa Clara.  Frank and Lillie married in 1879.  

Jack states, “We aren’t sure where he [Frank] worked all those early years, but in that era, a conscientious young man did not assume the responsibilities of a wife and family until he was able to provide the necessary support; and a loving father did not allow his daughter to marry unless he was assured that his future son-in-law was able to do so.  So we have to assume that by age 23, he [Frank] was gainfully employed.  The earliest indication…found relating to his employment was an 1883 announcement, at age 27, of the opening of a subdivision in San Martin and Morgan Hill.  A. L. Burbank and J. F. Devendorf are listed as agents.” (1)

So from this we can conclude that Frank had gone into real estate in order to support the family that he and Lillie would soon have.  

Frank and Lillie had five daughters.  Their first daughter Grace died in childbirth.  Their second, Edwina was born deaf and mute in 1881.  She became an accomplished painter and sculptor. A bronze bust she made of her father resides in Devendorf Park.

Then came Myrtle. Their fourth daughter, Jack Galante’s grandmother, Lillian was born in 1890.  And finally Marion. Jack stated, that by the time his grandmother Lillian was born, the Devendorf family was quite prosperous.  By 1897 the family purchased a large home with verandas and expansive lawns high in the hills above Alum Rock Park.

And then came Carmel….”A town with a temperament wholly its own.” (3)

Jack Galante continued the story of his great-grandfather offering questions to provoke his audience’s imagination. 

“How can one describe Frank Devendorf – a visionary, an impractical dreamer, a gambler? Not a gambler in the ordinary sense of the word.  But he did gamble his family’s present and future security when he got rid of all his other assets and occupations and devoted himself entirely to the development of Carmel.  Certainly he was a visionary.  My grandmother [Lillian] recalled a historic picnic on a point of land on the Seventeen Mile Drive.  It was summer, 1900. Her father looked over at the curving white sand of Carmel Beach and said: “Girls, I’m going to build a town there!” (1)

The Devendorf – Powers Connection

Though it is not completely clear how Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers met, more information was discovered during Jack’s talk.  At the presentation Erin Gafil, great-great granddaughter of Frank and Jane Powers remarked that there is some documentation that the two of them, Devendorf and Powers, may have been neighbors at one point.  We will just have to wait for Erin’s talk, Part 2 of the Carmel Residents Associations Centennial Series, March 17th, to see what she may have uncovered. 

What Jack does go on to tell us is that Devendorf and Powers must have known each other by November 1900, because that was the month that Frank Powers purchased two of Frank Devendorf’s Carmel lots. Why would Frank Powers purchase lots in a relatively unknown village on the central coast?

To get the answer, we need to rewind one year to 1899 – when according to Kirk Gafill, (great-great-grandson of Frank Powers who spoke at the Centennial Launch January 8, 2016) Frank Powers had been given a piece of land in Carmel in 1899, in lieu of cash for a legal bill.

A short time later that same year, Frank Powers traveled to Carmel to check out his new property.  Kirk Gafill described the adventure at the Centennial Launch as follows: Frank “took the train down to Monterey, and the stage coach over what was then Monterey Hill…

and camped out by what was then the ruins of Carmel Mission.  He woke up in the morning with the fog, walked around the ruins,

wandered over through the pine trees down to the beach and saw the dunes and realized it was a very special place and in fact there was some value to the legal bill he had just collected on.” (2)

So, it appears that when Frank Powers purchased two of Frank Devendorf’s Carmel lots in 1900, he had already decided that there was something to this land in Carmel. And in fact that might be why Powers purchased another 702 Carmel lots from Dr. Walton Saunders the same year. Two years later, in 1902, Powers had amassed about 80% of the lots of Carmel.   

At the same time, by 1902 Frank Devendorf had sold the family house in Alum Rock Park and put all his assets into the development of Carmel. 

On November 28, 1902, Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers formed the Carmel Development Company and held their first Board Meeting.

Jack Galante went on to explain the two men’s agreement as follows,  “Devendorf proposed: to take charge of the property “in the same manner as I have had charge for Frank Powers, giving my entire time and attention toward the development of this property,” for 2 years for 25% of all sales of land made during this period.” (1)

Frank Devendorf was away from his wife and daughters much of the time during the early years of Carmel’s development.  After selling the house in Alum Rock, Frank moved Lillie and the girls into a rented house in Oakland. The post card below is postmarked from Carmel April 1909. Struggling at times with the residual effects of tuberculosis,  Frank wrote to Lillie, “I am better today and am trying to be careful.”  

Frank Devendorf had a love for trees and the beautiful environment of the Monterey Peninsula. (He may had picked this up from his step father Captain Joseph Aram who established the very first nursery in Santa Clara County before his death in 1898.) Frank is responsible for the row of pine trees down the middle of Ocean Avenue which can be seen in their infancy in the flyer put out by Carmel Development Company c. 1909 shown below.

Frank Devendorf envisioned Carmel as being a town for families, and that they would live “in full harmony with the keynote given by nature.”

In the first flyer put out by Carmel Development Company shown below, the character of Carmel residents is described as “college professors, artists, writers of all kinds, students of music and the arts in their various phases, naturally congregate here.  The surroundings are kept to invite them. More than a hundred of our residents are supported by the product of brush or pen or through music or lectures.” 

During the late teen years of the 1900’s, after Carmel had been established, Frank Devendorf focused his attention on the development of the Carmel Highlands.  By then his daughters were grown and Lillie was free to come and live with Frank in Carmel. They were finally able to enjoy an extended time together in Carmel.  For their next 15 or so years time was spent between development of properties in the Highlands, picnics and traveling.   

In the fall of 1934, Frank went out during a storm to find water for the Highlands property.  Though he was encouraged not to go, Frank went because he knew that the residents of the Highlands were depending upon him to secure water for the development. From this journey during the storm, Frank became ill and never recovered.  He passed away November 2, 1934. 

A few minutes after 6pm, Jack finished his fascinating presentation on his great-grandfather Frank Devendorf, thanked us for the opportunity to speak to us and to honor his family. 

Then invited us to a celebratory toast from one of Galante Vineyard or Dawn’s Dream Winery vintages.  Jack finally left us with this little bit of wisdom, “Always drink upstream from the herd!” – Yup, makes sense.

 

Adventures of A Home Town Tourist Centennial Index

Carmel-by-the-Sea official Centennial Website 

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(1) Excerpt from text of Jack Galante talk on his great-grandfather, James Franklin Devendorf, January 21, 2016 at the Sunset Center. Text courtesy of The Carmel Residents Association Presents “Reliving Our History,” The Centennial Series, Part 1:  Jack Galante on his great-grandfather, Frank Devendorf, The “Father of Carmel.” 

(2) Excerpt from talk by Kirk Gafill, great-great-grandson of Frank Powers given at the Centennial Launch, January 8, 2016 by the World War I Monument on Ocean and Junipero.

(3)  Excerpt from flyer from Carmel Development Company, c. 1909 taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

All pictures are by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below: 

Picture of James Franklin Devendorf as a child,
Picture of James Franklin Devendorf at age 21,
Picture of real estate listing,
Picture of Frank and Lillie’s daughters,
and Picture of Frank in front of Carmel Development Company 1905 all courtesy of The Carmel Residents Association Presents “Reliving Our History,” The Centennial Series, Part 1:  Jack Galante on his great-grandfather, Frank Devendorf, The “Father of Carmel.” 

Post card c. 1932 of Hale Bros. downtown San Jose from Plummer and Associates’ Blog.

Picture of Carmel Hill 1908 from Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Picture of Carmel Mission in ruins, c. 1880 from the City of Monterey, Colton Hall Museum. 

Post card from Frank Devendorf to Lillie taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Picture of Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers in a buggy – courtesy of Jack Galante and the Jane Galante Collection. 

Pictures of flyer from Carmel Development Company, c. 1909 taken from the Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department. 

Carmel-by-the-Sea – Jane Powers Walkway Loop Plus Carmel Beach Walking Tour – Part 1

Carmel-by-the-Sea Jane Powers Walkway Loop Plus Carmel Beach Walking Tour – Part 2

Launch of the Carmel-by-the-Sea Centennial Celebration – January 8, 2016

Carmel-by-the-Sea
Centennial Celebration
Launch
January 8, 2016 

On a rather dreary Friday afternoon, Carmel-by-the-Sea Community Services was busy organizing the set up for Carmel’s Centennial Celebration Launch. Chairs were set up in the middle of a busy downtown intersection. 

Not to worry though, Ocean Avenue remained open, but was marked down to one lane each way past the historic World War I Memorial Arch.

By 2:45pm Carmelites began to gather 

staking their claim to the best seating. 

Long time Carmelites, special guests,
and dignitaries arrived. 

Kirk Gafill, great-great-grandson of Frank Powers

 and Jack Galante, great-grandson of Frank Devendorf discussed their upcoming remarks.

Frank Devendorf kept watch on the festivities
 from the label of his great-grandsons

centennial vintage.

Standing next to the special “big reveal,”
Channel 8 News Anchor, Lauren Seaver,
 was on the scene with her cameraman. 

Not missing a beat she caught a quick interview with
Carmel-by-the-Sea Mayor Jason Burnett, 

and Congressman Sam Farr.That is 
Historic Resources Board Member
Elinor Laiolo finding her seat in the background. 

 Carmel Councilman Ken Talmage and long time Carmelite Cindy Lloyd arrived, while Centennial Committee member and former mayor of Carmel Sue McCloud and Jack Galante reviewed last minute notes.  

There is new Carmelite and long time County Supervior
 Dave Potter as well as  City Councilwoman Carrie Theis.

As the audience grew, 

and grew,  I spied Carmel Heritage Society Vice-President
 Carl Iverson, former  Carmel mayor Ken White and under that black fedora former Carmel mayor Charlotte Townsend. 

It’s almost time – Sue McCloud greeted
Congressman Sam Farr and 

Centennial Committee members Merv Sutton
 and Barbara Livingston were seated. 

Chief of Police and temporary
City Administrator
Mike Calhoun is in the house. 

A dreary Friday afternoon won’t keep Carmelites from 
celebrating. It’ 3:00 pm time to get this party started!! 

Make sure to check the Centennial Website frequently
for details about the 100 events planned for Carmel’s hundredth year and enjoy the following 20 minute video of the highlights of the Centennial Launch.  

Adventures of A Home Town Tourist Centennial Index

Carmel-by-the-Sea official Centennial Website __
Pictures and video by – L A Momboisse http://www.carmelbytheseaca.blogspot.com 

Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part I – Scenic Bluff Pathway Along Carmel Beach

Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part I 

Scenic Bluff Pathway Along Carmel Beach
1 mile 

Those who visit our village may only have a few hours to spend in Carmel-by-the-Sea.  Some enjoy shopping, some love to eat, others enjoy a walk.  The Scenic Loop Walking Tour is a series of two blog posts.  They are a self-guided walking tour of what I believe feature three miles of natures most impressive beauty.  If time does not permit, this first part can be walked as 1 1/2 miles round trip – Just turn around at the new restrooms on Santa Lucia and Scenic where this blog ends.

So that you are not constrained by the two hour parking limit in town,  I suggest you park in the parking lot at the end of Ocean Avenue by Carmel Beach.  There is no time limit here on parking during the day.  

There are three public restrooms along this walking tour. One at the beginning, base of Ocean Avenue, at the end of Part 1 at Santa Lucia and Scenic, and next to the parking lot at Carmel River Beach.   

This walk is fairly level but weather conditions can be windy and cold.  A windbreaker or sweater is recommended, dark glasses, camera, and binoculars are useful.

Follow along on this google map which marks highlights of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea.  

Start this walk at the Carmel North Dunes Habitat Restoration Site (northwest corner of Ocean and San Antonio* next to the Carmel Beach parking lot) under one of Carmel’s heritage trees, a Blue Gum Eucalyptus. 

This tree, the largest in the Village, (the trunk measures over 22 feet around) just underwent a haircut in readiness for (hopefully) the impending El Nino.  This Eucalyptus is thought to have been planted in the 1850’s. 

Before we continue on to Carmel Beach take a moment to look beyond the ropes at the Habitat Restoration project. The Carmel-by-the-Sea Garden Club began this project in 2009 to “correct a century of  human disturbance which had greatly affected the natural state of the dunes.”

The non-native and invasive ice plant was removed.  Though the battle continues – as ice plant pushes through the native Pacific Dune Grass shown below.

With the ice plant gone (for the most part) the natural dune plants have begun to reappear.  For the majority of the year I have to say the natural dune plants are not much to look at. Still I understand and embrace the concept – at least in small doses.  

At times during the spring, summer, and fall we now see glimpses of native plants, delicate Pink, 

and Yellow Sand Verbena, 

Beach Evening Primrose,

and the Dune Sagewort. 

Continue your walk down Ocean Avenue toward the ocean. After the restrooms, follow the boardwalk past the Ghost Tree (a dead Monterey Cypress planted early in the 1900’s)

to the Carmel Beach Overlook.  

Take in the unobstructed view of Pebble Beach to the north (shown below) and south to Point Lobos.

Walk, back tracking to the parking lot and cross the street following the brick path to the south side of Ocean Avenue.

Here you will find a unique rusted steel sculpture attached to the fence.

This is actually the second sculpture at this location, the first one designed by Mark Periman was damaged over the years and replaced in 2005 with this one by artist Michael Largent.

For fellow Geocachers, (I know you are out there) this is the site of one of our numerous caches in town, called The End of Ocean Avenue. 

Continue one block back toward town to Scenic Drive.  On the southeast corner is a large Spanish style home.  

In 1937 this two story home was built for the President of Zellerbach Paper Company, Harold Lionel Zellerbach. Harold’s grandfather, Anthony Zellerbach founded the paper company in 1868. 

 Continue south along Scenic Drive to Eighth Avenue.  

It is here you will start the walk along the Scenic Bluff Pathway which parallels Scenic Road on the bluffs above Carmel Beach.

Just in case you are interested, here is a little background on how the Scenic Bluff Pathway came to be.  

In March of 1983 a disastrous storm (part of the 1982-83 very strong El Nino weather system) thundered through Monterey County. Almost overnight the beach slopes along Carmel Beach became beach cliffs.  Sixteen large cypress trees fell and five beach stairways were damaged.  Four of which were reduced to rubble. 

In 1983, Mayor Charlotte Townsend formed the Beach Task Force to clean up the damage.  Phase I completed in 1985, consisted of beach clean-up, installation of long-term stabilization of the bluffs, and a new storm drain system.  The cost, $816,283.  

In January 1988, under Mayor Clint Eastwood, City Council approved the work for Phase II which would include a decomposed granite bluff-top walkway beginning at Eighth Avenue and ending at Santa Lucia, reconstruction of five stairways, addition of handicapped ramps, benches, landscaping and irrigation.  The cost, $825,000.  

Mayor Jean Grace, who had worked on the Beach Task Force before becoming mayor, cut the ribbon for the walkway in June 1988.  It had taken five years but Scenic Bluff Walkway was finally open. This pathway, marked by the blue and silver ocean sign, is a small section of the 1,200 mile California Coastal Trail from Oregon to Mexico. 
  

While  you enjoy the beauty of this first half mile, here are a few things to keep an eye out for.

If you are able to take your eyes off the breathtaking beauty of Carmel Beach, the houses that line Scenic are quite stunning themselves. We have many styles, no tract housing here, and some have had famous residents. 

The three story Spanish Eclectic style home, with the massive brick chimney named Anything Goes**, was the home of Richard Cox.

Richard was born in Carmel in 1930, his father Elmer was a WWI veteran, his mother the silent film actress Ruth Powell. Richard majored in Drama at Stanford and took the stage name Dick Sargent. For those of my generation we remember Richard as Darrin Stephens from the TV show Bewitched.  

Just after the Ninth Avenue pass-through to San Antonio Avenue is Las Ondas, a three story house with tile roof. Built in 1933, this was the home of former Carmel mayor, Clint Eastwood during the 1980’s and 90’s.  The name Las Ondas is visible on the gate on San Antonio Street which you will pass on Part 2 of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour.

In the next block (between Ninth and Tenth Avenues) there is a proliferation of mid-century modern homes.  This style has grown on me over the years.  Ad Tearman a 1,950 square foot Japanese-style two-story wood home was featured in the January 2011 Architectural Digest.  Here is a slide show of the interior.      

Between Twelfth and Thirteenth look for the white stucco cottage with tile roof named Periwinkle and Sea Urchin. They were originally built in 1915 as two fisherman’s huts. Between 1930 and 1981, five different additions and renovations were made to the dwellings.  My mother told me stories of visiting them in the 1930’s. I took the picture below in the 1990’s when the homes were still divided as two separate units. 

In 2000 Periwinkle and Sea Urchin were united as one by a hall. You can see this in the picture below. 

  

At Thirteenth Avenue Carmel stone stairs lead to Cooke’s Cove. 

Named after the MacGowan – Cooke sisters who lived in the large Tudor style residence two blocks east of the cove on Thirteenth.

Alice MacGowan and Grace MacGowan Cooke came to Carmel in 1908, prior to that they lived in Helicon Hall, in Englewood, New Jersey.  Helicon Hall was a social experiment in socialist living designed by Upton Sinclair which burnt down five months after its inception.

After the failed experiment, Sinclair Lewis came to Carmel, and the MacGowan sisters followed.  They purchased the large home, which was built in 1905, on the bluff above the cove.  At the time, it was the only house in the area. In Part 2 of this walking tour we will have a chance to see their house. But for now we continue south on the Scenic Bluff Walkway to Santa Lucia and Carmel’s newest public restroom.

As with everything in Carmel, things take time.  Our new restrooms began life in 1991 as a suggestion by the 2016 Centennial Committee. Twenty-three years after the suggestion, in December of 2014 they opened to the public.

Built to blend in with the architecture and geography of Scenic Road they are hardly visible from the beach level or Street level. Cost to the village $595,000.

This is where we leave off Part 1 of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour. Part 2 will loop around Carmel Point to Carmel River Beach and back to the Carmel Beach parking lot via San Antonio Avenue.

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* Carmel-by-the-Sea does not have addresses we have coordinates.
** Many houses in Carmel-by-the-Sea are referred to by their name.

All photography by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Black and white photo of Mayor Eastwood’s swearing in, from Carmel Magazine, Spring/Summer 2012. 

Carmel-by-the-Sea Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part 2 – Scenic Road around Carmel Point pass River Beach, to Carmelo Street and San Antonio Avenue

Scenic Loop Walking Tour – Part 2 

Scenic Road around Carmel Point
Pass River Beach, to Carmelo Street
 and San Antonio Avenue
2 miles

Part 2 of the Scenic Loop begins at the new public restroom at Scenic and Santa Lucia. This portion of the tour is 2 miles and will take us around Carmel Point, past Carmel River Beach and Wetlands, over to San Antonio Road and back to the Blue Gum Eucalyptus at the northwest Corner of Ocean and San Antonio where our walking tour began.  You may follow this walk on Google Map.

We are at the south end of Carmel Beach.  Take a moment to look back at where you have been. Straight across Carmel Bay is Pescadero Point, the Lodge at Pebble Beach, and the Pebble Beach Golf Course.  

Very shortly you will have a glimpse of the north side of a house built by Frank Lloyd Wright. Mr. Wright was in his 80’s when he took on this project.  It took him five years to build and it was completed in 1952. 

Periodically this home is included on the Carmel Heritage Society annual June House and Garden Tour. I have had the privilege to tour the inside on many occasions.  More pictures and history can be found at my blog post here.  

At 26085 Scenic take notice of the two story modern Pueblo style house named Cimarron. According to Carmel lore, Hollywood actor Richard Dix built a Taos style adobe on the property in 1929 and named it after his film Cimarron which was released in 1931.  

  

In 1937 the property was sold to Gustav Lannestock, a Swedish emigrant who made his living, building, writing and translating.

Quite the socialites, Gustav and his wife Lucille nightly hosted 5:00 p.m. cocktail hour for anyone who was walking by their home.  The casual gatherings were frequented by local authors John Steinbeck, and Robinson Jeffers.

In 1949 Swedish writer Vilhelm Moberg happened to walk by. Moberg had just begun writing a novel entitled Emigrants. The Swedes became fast friends and Lannestock would end up translating the four book series of Emigrants from Swedish to English.  To complete the Hollywood full circle, Moberg’s novels would be made into two Warner Bros movies, The Emigrants and The New Land.  

Before walking on take in the view from the front of Cimarron of the crescent shaped Carmel Beach, Carmel Dunes, and Pebble Beach Golf Course.  

On the corner of Scenic and Martin you can’t miss the stone castle style house with false thatch roof. 

This home, built in 1993, looks larger than it is – at two bedrooms and two baths this house measures out

 at under 1,600 square feet.  

Across the street is the gate to the Frank Lloyd Wright house, one of only five homes built on the beach side of Scenic.  

Just past the fence and a set of mail boxes near the Frank Lloyd Wright house is a well worn path to the beach.  There are no steps so this does require climbing down and up an unstable bluff through ice plant. 

If the tide is out and you feel that you are capable of the climb it is worth it.  But use caution if climbing on the rocks and Never Turn Your Back On The Ocean! 

There are two rock houses right before making the curve around the rocky point ahead.  The first one with the tile roof, 26183 Scenic, was built in 2003.  This two bedroom, two bathroom sold  for a cool $11,950,000 in 2004. 

The second one called Pack’s Point of View, (that must be Pack looking over the fence below) was built in 2001. 

This five bedroom house sold in 2003 for $7,100,000.  An old Coldwell Banker listing showed this interior picture below. 

Time to take a look back at where you have been. Those are the Ocean Avenue Dunes to the farthest left of the picture below. We were there about 45 minutes ago when we took in the Carmel Beach Overlook!

A few yards ahead on our walk is a bend in Scenic Road.  At the bend is a stone wall with stairs that lead down to the Bay and Scenic Station for Carmel Area Wastewater District. 

There is some Carmel lore regarding a tunnel that once went from this wall to the basement of the Edward Kuster house on Ocean View Avenue in the 1920’s.  If you are standing by the wall just turn around and look up.  You can’t miss the Kuster Castle.

Edward Kuster (founder of the Golden Bough Theater in 1924) was the first husband of Una Jeffers. They divorced in 1913. Both remarried, (Una to Robinson Jeffers) but remained friends.  Such good friends that in 1920 Edward would built his house in Carmel just down the street from Una’s Tor House.  

The next half mile of coast to the Carmel Point Curve is rocky and wild.  There are many great areas for tide-pooling along this part of the walk.  But do so with great caution!!

As you round the point you can’t miss this European style 6,900 square foot home.  It happens to be the dream home of my very best friend.  Every time we walk by she imagines herself living in it. I have put her on notice to start saving her lunch money as it just came on the market for $13,750,000.  

As Scenic Road’s rocky coast line continues look off to the right at 

the rugged coast of Point Lobos State Reserve.  

Which is an adventure for another day. 

That set of rocks a few hundred yards from land is Carmel Point’s version of the 17 Mile Drive Bird Rock. With binoculars you can usually find a few Brandt’s Cormorant’s and Brown Pelican’s hanging out.   

Before going any further take a look back at where you have been.  In the distance is Pescadero Point just north of Pebble Beach.  

A bit further down Scenic, just before arriving at the intersection of Stewart Way look to your left to see Tor House and Hawk Tower, built in 1919 for Robinson and Una Jeffers. 

Once a year, the first Saturday in May, the Tor House Foundation holds their annual Garden Party.  This is the only time when photography is allowed on the property.  

Robinson Jeffers built Tor House and Hawk Tower with stones from the beach directly below the property.  Look to you right to see this beach.  This cove is very popular for scuba divers. 

Just above the cove is the iconic Butterfly House, built in 1952 by Frank Wynkoop. This 2,800 square foot house last sold in 2013 for $16,500,000. It is currently undergoing a major renovation.   

 In less than a tenth of a mile we arrive at the
 Carmel Point Curve.

It is hard to believe that at one time, Scenic Road was two way.  In 1965, my brother Dana learned to drive our station wagon on this road.  He took the curve wide hugging the edge every time just to scare my mom and I.  

Just around the curve, through the winter bloom of the Candelabra Plant, (aloe arborescens) you will get your first view of Carmel River Beach.  In one more week those spikes will pop bright red!!!

In 1602 when three Carmelite Friers were exploring this area with Viszcaino Expedition, they named this area El Rio Carmelo.  As it reminded them of their original Carmelilte Monestary at the foot of Mount Carmel in Palestine. It is from the name of this river that Carmel-by-the-Sea gets her name. 

Carmel River Beach has an extremely dangerous undertow. If you walk this beach stay out of the water.

When I was a young girl, my brother and I would bring our green plastic row boat down to the river to play.  When we left for the day, my mom would say, “stay away from the ocean side the tow will kill you.”  Somehow my brother and I listened to that wisdom and set our boat off on the river side for hours of adventures in the tule reeds. 

The Scenic Drive we have followed for the last two miles ends at the entrance to Carmel River Beach and Wetlands.

  There is a restroom just off the parking lot.

 Now focus your attention ahead (south) down the center of the sand bar toward Carmel Meadows.  This sand bar between the ocean and Carmel River and Wetlands is an ever changing landscape.   The picture above was taken in December 2015, the picture below April 2013.

If time permits and the sandbar is passable the Hike to Portola Crespi Cross in Carmel Meadows is a great add on to this hike.  I believe the best time to make the Portola Crespi Cross Hike is during wildflower season, and I am counting on this wildflower season to be stellar. 

A few interesting shore birds at the Carmel River Wetlands entertain the amateur birder in me (happily I am easily entertained). Like the group of Snowy Plovers I accidentally scared above and the solitary Snowy Egret below. 

Visible across the wetlands just above the tule reeds, 

are the Meadowview Triplex rooms of Mission Ranch.

For my fellow Geocachers pick up Kate’s Kache before leaving Carmel River Beach.  

 When you leave Carmel River Beach
you will be walking north along Carmelo Street.

Our last mile of the Scenic Loop Walking Tour returns to the Carmel Beach Ocean Avenue Parking Lot via residential streets.

Just a few houses past the wetlands on your right is an ultra modern stone and steel home at 26362 Carmelo.   

In 2009 the owners of this property hired local architect David Martin to completely remodel of what was their simple ranch style home. The only surviving feature from the old property is the majestic mayten tree in the front yard.  I had the privilege to tour this home during the 2015 Carmel Bach Festival Cottages, Gardens & Cantatas. 

If you would like to go beyond the steel and glass door, see my blog post here and scroll to the Cooperman Home.  

A block further on the left are four quaint cottages named after Robin Hood and his friends.  Built in the 1920’s, the Lincoln Green Inn at 26362 Carmelo was the first hotel built to serve guests on Carmel Point. 

Just past the Lincoln Green Inn turn left on Fifteenth Avenue and right on South San Antonio Avenue. 

On the southeast corner of South San Antonio and Fourteenth Avenue is a tiny gray and red cottage. This cottage began life around 1910 as a studio for writer John Fleming Wilson.

In 1912 Philip Wilson Sr.(no relation) purchased the small writers studio and converted it into a club house for the nine hole golf course he built on Point Loeb (now Carmel Point). The picture below shows the Club House in 1914. 

At the onset of World War I, Philip Wilson Sr. was called to service and the golf course was abandoned.  The land was later subdivided and in 1990  a one bedroom house was built on the property – integrating the old Club House into the home as a living room.  

In 2015 the current owners (also owners of Carmel Cottage Inn which we will pass shortly on our walking tour) removed the addition and restored the Club House to its original size, even maintaining the original fireplace and interior siding. 

The Club House is now called the Golf House and now happily acts as a guest cottage for the newly built main house to its north. To see the inside of these houses see my blog post on the 2015 Carmel Heritage Society House and Garden Tour.  It is the third house reviewed in the post. 

Now back to our walk. At Santa Lucia Avenue make a right and then a quick left back on to San Antonio.

At Thirteenth and San Antonio look east up Thirteenth Street to view the MacGowan-Cooke house which I discussed in Part 1.  

Cooke’s Cove on Carmel Beach at Thirteenth is named after sisters Alice MacGowan and Grace MacGowan Cooke.  

Over the course of the next seven blocks from Thirteenth Avenue to Ocean Avenue you may either take one of the “cut through” paths (on the west side of the street) back down to Scenic and walk Scenic back to Ocean Avenue or stay on San Antonio and walk a small area of  residential Carmel known as the Golden Rectangle.

If you stay on San Antonio you are in for a treat as every home is unique. Many feature creative names such as Deamcatcher, Beach Therapy, My Rx or 

Surf’s Up. Names take the place of address numbers in the village.   

 There are small cottages, 

 

numerous custom builds 

in all architectural and 

whimsical styles. 

Of course we also have plenty of historical homes and inns on San Antonio.  Keep your eye out for Braemar on the east side just south of Ninth Avenue.

This Craftsman style bungalow was built around 1921 by one of Carmel’s early master builders, M. J. Murphy.  I toured this house during a Bach Festival House and Garden Tour, you may view more of the grounds at this site.  

Just after Eighth Avenue look for the Carmel Cottage Inn on the east side of San Antonio. These are five historical homes lovingly restored and graciously run as an inn by innkeeper and friend Cheryl Assemi. 

 I have toured and photographed this property numerous times. One of my absolute favorites, see this blog post for more pictures of the property inside and out.  Just scroll past Hob Nob.   

If only the ground in Carmel could talk, this property would have stories to tell.  Midway between Ocean and Seventh on the east side lived Lincoln Steffens, described by Carmel author Alissandra Dramov, as a “muckraking journalist, author, Socialist, and political activist.” (1)

Born in 1866, Lincoln Steffens studied at Berkeley, served as a reporter for the Evening Post in New York in 1892, and was editor of McClure’s Magazine in 1901.

In 1927 Steffens purchased the six year old house that sat on the property 4 southeast of Ocean. It became known as Getaway, and had many famous visitors: Robinson Jeffers, Gertrude Stein, Carl Sandburg, Langston Hughes, and John Steinbeck among others.        

In 1967 the Sigma Delta Chi Professional Journalistic Society honored the site of Steffens home with the stone plaque pictured above.  In 1989 the property was sold for $975,000 and the new owners completed a major remodel, addition and reconstruction to the original home two years later.

  The current residence, now called Meremar, hardly resembles the Steffens home of the 1920’s and 30’s. 

At the next corner notice the French country style

 Ocean’s End, 

and you are back to the Blue Gum Eucalyptus where our Scenic Loop Walking Tour began. 

Until our next Adventure of a Home Town Tourist, keep on exploring!

___
All pictures by L. A. Momboisse except those listed below: 

Black and white photo of Cimarron – Carmel Magazine, Summer/Fall 2013, page 87.

Black and white photo of the Golf House as the Club House in 1914 – Courtesy of Harrison Memorial History Library. 

(1) Dramov, Alissandra. Carmel-by-the-Sea, The Early Years (1903-1913). Author House, 2012. p.149.

Carmel Poodle Day

5th Annual Poodle Day
Carmel-by-the-Sea

September 27, 2014 

Benefiting NorCal Poodle Rescue 

Poodle Day is a day that unites Poodle’s and their poodle people with others of like mind.

They come from all over California and beyond to celebrate a day all about them in one of Dog Fancy Magazine’s top ten most dog-friendly cities in America.

The day began precisely at 9:30 am at the Carmel Crossroads Shopping Center with a peaceful Poodle parade consisting of 700 Poodle participants and their people. 

The Poodle’s paraded and proudly preened in their most popular varieties, colors and styles. 

First out of the gate were the tiny Teacup Poodle’s, and then the ever so slightly bigger Toy.  

 Many wore their favorite outfits and 

these proudly paraded as pumpkins. 

Sometimes their people companions also got into the act. Such as Ms. Little Bo Peep and her pretty Toy Poodle made up as a sheep. 

Next were the Miniature Poodles.

Not sure if that color is natural.

But these pretty pink Poodles sure were personable!

The Standard Poodle category featured more pink and some popular Poodle cuts such as the Continental Clip with a plethora of puffy pompons.  How long does it take her to get ready in the morning? 

 These precious poodles are showing off their perfect Bikini Clip with pretty pastels.

Bikini Clip Patriotic Poodle

Cowboy Cut Poodle

Why am I wearing my mom’s shoes – aka Patient Poodle.

 There were 700 pretty Poodle participants and I had to narrow this down so these are the final popular picks.  

Peace Poodle from Brentwood Police Department, 

and not just another My Little Pony Poodle –

Which we will see more of during Poodle play at the beach later this afternoon. 

With the parade over it is time for the Poodles to attend some profoundly practical classes.  The one entitled “How to Extend Your Cut,” was packed. 

After a short break and a few treats the Poodles met at 13th and Scenic 

for a playful romp on Carmel Beach. 

Precisely at 1:45pm – because we all know Poodles are prompt – all assembled for a perfectly priceless photo with their precious families.  

With back to the waves, they proudly posed for portraits. 

By 3pm, ready to retire to their rooms, the Poodles scattered throughout the lovely village of Carmel-by-the-Sea, lounging in spas, putting their paws up and having PETicures. 

At 4pm the Poodles, dressed in their best duds, were off to their well deserved Yappy Hour.  This year with six options it was hard to choose.  But with the available seating at a premium, and all events sold out our attendees were yapping with pleasure at whichever venue they were able to attend.   

Anton & Michel, with prominent seating surrounding a pleasant pool and fountain –  so refreshing.  

Grasings opened their upper veranda for precious Poodle pleasure. 

At Vino Napoli, who could resist a place on the table by the fireplace. 

At Jack London’s we met 

our first Sheepdoodle. 

Those who were able to attend the Bistro Beaujolais were pleased as punch to drink from the Fountain of Woof. 

And for those who were able to obtain the most popular ticket, The Cypress Inn, 

they had a perfect time with plenty of room to lounge on the patio by the fire or in the Doris Day Room.  

Make your reservations early for next year’s Annual Poodle Day.  A pleasurably perfect day where all Poodles are proud to present their perfectness and properly enjoy some well deserved praise and pampering.  

___
Photos – L. A. Momboisse – http://www.carmelbytheseaca.blogspot.com 

Carmel by the Sea House and Garden Tour 2013 – Part 3

Hob Nob 

Carmelo 2 SW of 7th Avenue 

The jury is out on the architect/builder of Hob Nob, a Tudor Revival style built for $4,500 in 1924 for Garfield D. Mermer. 

The original thought was that this home was the product of Ernest Bixler who was not only an early contributor to Carmel architecture; he also served as postmaster from 1939 to 1942 and on the Carmel Planning Commission from 1946 to 1952. 

Or maybe it was a Murphy. In 2003, Kent L. Seavey, Preservation Consultant wrote in the report for the State of California, Department of Parks and Recreation, Building, Structure, and Object Record, “The “ell” plan is unusual for the romantic revival Tudor style, but similar to the rambling layout of architect George McCrea’s 1922 design for Dr. Hermann Spohr’s House on Crespi, contracted by M. J. Murphy.” 

Another thought is that this house may have been the first home Hugh Comstock built in the “Golden Rectangle.” A few of his signatures are seen on the outside, the steeply pitched roof line, with door hood,  pierced flatwork banister, and 

decorative arched openings.

Inside there are a few more Comstock signatures,  pierced flatwork railings accented by an original 1920’s era outdoor light fixture,  

and another pierced flatwork balcony off the upstairs master.  And yes a sweet ocean view through the French doors.  

Finally, a rounded inverse arch open beam ceiling

incorporating the exterior roof line. 

Nestled under

 the largest Red Leaf Japanese Maple in Carmel. Whoever built her, Hob Nob is
an exceptional Carmel cottage.

 The current owners purchased this home in 1977 and have added an upstairs master and first floor dining room off the kitchen, that I’m sure is perfect for multi-generational family get-togethers.

But there is still more to see on our

Carmel House and Garden Tour 

 Hob Nob’s weather-vain  is pointing  us south toward Carmel Cottage Inn. 

Carmel Cottage Inn
San Antonio Street and Eighth Avenue

“Florence Crittenden Maternity and the Lying-in Hospital and Foundling Asylum, [are] two of the sweetest, cleanest and prettiest place in San Francisco; both are under the medical care and supervision of Dr. Lucia M. Lane and Dr. Virginia W. Smiley, two able, careful and scientific obstetricians. “ (1) 

Between 1906 and 1915, Dr. Lucia M. Lane and Dr. Virginia W. Smiley purchased 8 lots on the eastern side of Block T in “a town in a pine forest alongside Carmel Mission. Facing a mile of white sand beach. Three miles from the Monterey railroad station.” (2) 

Log Haven
Sleeps up to 10

Between 1907 and 1910, they built an 800 square foot log cabin on their property. The undated picture below shows this log cabin (Log Haven)

                                     with possibly one of the doctors standing by the fence. 

Photographs like those above, show how different Carmel’s shoreline looked in the early 20th century.  When Log Haven was first built, the area was covered with low native scrub plants and very few trees. Plants that survived would have to tolerate exposure to salt, burial by shifting sands and blasting sand-laden winds.  Today, there are only a few of these areas left in Carmel, mostly in the North Dunes by Ocean Avenue and San Antonio.

In 1912, using shiplap siding, the doctor’s added a two story addition to the north side of the log cabin. 

The exterior wall of the log cabin 

 became the interior wall
of the dining room addition.

The  picture below shows the dining area 

shortly after construction in 1912.

Thanks to the attentiveness to detail of the current owner, Log Haven remains remarkable unchanged and in exceptional condition, as seen below. 

To reach the second floor of this new addition, a narrow staircase appears to have been “carved” into the log wall. 

Originally the upstairs area consisted of a bedroom

with an open air sleeping porch attached. 

At some point the openings in the walls

 were enclosed with windows. 

Cary de Angulo Baynes
and
Hallie Samson

In 1916, Drs. Lucia and Smiley sold their eight lots along with the log cabin to Cary de Angulo who lived part time in the log cabin along with her husband Jaime and their daughter until the early 1920’s when Cary  divorced Jaime and went to Switzerland to attend a lecture by Swiss psychiatrist Carl Jung.  Cary became Jung’s translator and transcriber.  Knowing that her ex-husband, who was described as “a linguist, ethnologist, ethnomusicologist, writer, and patron saint of the beat generation,” (3) would be interested in meeting Jung, she arranged for an introduction.  Jaime then invited Jung to the pueblo of Mable Luhan in Taos, New Mexico, the very same Mable Luhan who was also a good friend of Robinson and Una Jeffers. Carmelite history can be so entwined.

Cary eventually re-married, this time to, Carl Jung’s apprentice, HG “Peter” Baynes.  In 1928 Cary, her daughter, and Peter spent about a year living in the log cabin on 8th Street between Carmelo and San Antonio, what Peter lovingly referred to as “Cary’s Shack.”  Finally in 1937, Cary Baynes sold her “shack” along with the eight lots to Adolf Lafrenz, who in 1941 sold four of the lots – leaving the property as it exists today.

Adolf Lafrenz placed the property in joint tenancy with Hallie Samson, whom he eventually married, and in 1940 and 1941, Hallie applied for building permits to construct the other four cottages on the property, which she subsequently offered as vacation rentals called “Cottages by the Sea.” She named them, Tradewinds, Home Port, Moon Gate and Sky Way.  The current owner is convinced that the reason these cottages are so well laid out is because a women created the design.

The picture below is an undated design created by Hallie Samson for the units, with paths connecting  each unit, allowing them to be separate and private, yet joined together as one, if desired.

I fell in love with this Inn when I toured it last December during the Carmel Heritage Society’s  Inns of Distinction 2012.  The current owners purchased the property in November of 2011 from Nob Hill Properties (affiliated with the La Playa Hotel) who purchased the cottages from the Lafrenz Living Trust in 1989.  

Much of Hallie Samson’s paths still flow throughout the property.  The current owners  have truly embraced  Samson’s vision and in a labor of love restored cottages and the grounds with a classic 1940’s feel.  

Tradewinds
Sleeps up to 8

The picture* above was taken of Tradewinds in 1962 from San Antonio Street, showing the garage and back door to the kitchen. 

Above is the same elevation, taken in 2011 just prior to the latest renovations. Below is the same elevation taken after renovations. 

The front entrance is 

reached off 8th Avenue 

Surrounded by lush gardens and a private side patio, Tradewinds is the largest, at 1626 square feet, of the four cottages built in the 1940’s.  The living area features an open beam ceiling

and unique brick fireplace 

an H. Wetter wood stove 

and balcony terrace. 

Home Port, Moon Gate and Sky Way
Sleeps up to 4, 4, and 2 

Home Port and Sky Way can be seen from San Antonio.  The picture* below was taken in 1962, Home Port to the right with the circular window, Sky Way to the left. 

The same view today is shown below; the lush garden has grown a bit, adding privacy to the western elevation. 

In between Home Port and Sky Way stands a moon gate that was built during the 1940s.  The current owners have enhanced this by adding a layer of wood to the back of the gate and inside placing lights that show through the bubble glass when lit after dusk.  

Behind this gate you will find Moon Gate. 

I love the view from the front door.

Moon Gate measures 922 square feet.  The living room features an open beam ceiling, 

original wood floors, hand stenciled
 and accented with vintage braided rugs

                                                                       

                                                                        and brick fireplace. 

Home Port is 756 square feet of quaint 1940’s retro
 – below shows the front door
as viewed from Sky Way’s deck.

But we are entering the kitchen
via the rose garden 

and back door. 

Off the kitchen is the living area 

with that unusual round window embedded in brick from the 1962 picture.  

 Another vintage feature are the “Z” style doors.

Next is the smallest of the four cottages
 built by Hallie Samson 630 square foot Sky Way. 

Sky Way may be small, but it boasts
a peek at the  ocean from the front patio balcony. 

The open beam ceiling slopes steeply over the living, 

and kitchen area, 

continuing on  

over the cozy bedroom. 

Finally our tour of Carmel Cottage Inn would not be complete without a wander through the meticulously cared for gardens.

Many thanks to all of the home owners who graciously opened their homes for the 2013 Carmel House and Garden Tour, the sponsors Sotheby’s International Realty and Village Corner Restaurant, and to the Carmel Heritage Society.  Save the date for, the not to be missed, Heritage Society Inns of Distinction Tour December 8th.  Local restaurants serve finger food and local wineries their varietals as we tour 8 festively decorated village inns.

House and Garden Tour Part 1 – First Murphy House, Hugh W. Comstock Residence, A Storybook Cottage

House and Garden Tour Part 2 – Forest Cottage, All the Way, Holly Oak Cottage

___
Credits
(1) Nursing World, (Lakeside Publishing Co., 1898), Volumes 21-22,  page 315.
(2) Sales Brochure J. F. Devendorf, Carmel Development, Co. Undated.
(3) Sonu Shamdasani, Jung and the Making of Modern Psychology the Dream of A Science (University Press, Cambridge, 2003), p. 381.

Photos
Undated black and white photographs of Log Haven courtesy of Pat Hathoway.

The black and white close up of the woman courtesy of Pat Hathoway through Carmel Cottage Inn.
Black and white photograph of Cary Baynes courtesy of Diana Baynes Jansen.
*Pictures of Tradewinds and Home Port taken in 1962 and 2011 are courtesy of the Carmel-by-the-Sea Planning Department files.
All other photos by L. A. Momboisse http://www.carmelbytheseaca.blogspot.com.

Special thanks to Greta Bell, Connie Bell, and Cheryl Assemi for providing the comprehensive history on Carmel Cottage Inn.

Carmel by the Sea House and Garden Tour 2013 – Part 2 – Carmel-by-the-Sea

House and Garden Tour 2013 

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Part 2 

Forest Cottage 

Mountain View and Santa Rita 

Our house tour continues with Forest Cottage built by architect Frederick Bigland, located directly across the street from the Forest Theater and a few blocks north of the entrance to Mission Trail Nature Preserve, both deserve a wander when more time permits.

Fredrick Bigland began his career as an architect/builder in Northern England at the turn of the 20th century.  He left England for the United States seeking a climate which he hoped would provide him relief from his asthma. Stopping first in Santa Barbara Mr. Bigland then moved on to Carmel-by-the-sea, building several homes similar in appearance to his own on Mountain View and Santa Rita.

The Biglands were very active in the Carmel community, their only child, Mary, married a young lawyer, Eben Whittlesey, who went on to serve Carmel-by-the-Sea as mayor from 1962 to 1964. 

When Frederick Bigland arrived in Carmel in the mid-twenties, the “Storybook Fairytale” sub-style of Tudor architecture had been well established by Hugh Comstock.  Mr. Bigland brought his own storybook Tudor style from England and incorporated it into “Forest Cottage” which he built for $1500 for himself and his wife in 1926.

There are an abundance of beautiful Coastal Live Oak trees that thrive on this property; with crooked wide-spreading limbs they shade much of the cottage.

   .  

Mr. Bigland’s Storybook Tudor style is evident before entering Forest Cottage with the exterior a combination of smooth cement stucco and false half timbering 

framing the front multi-paned

 leaded-glass window

and the gabbled roof line which “rolls over” the arched entry door of vertical wood panels with wrought-iron studding.  

The roof is laid with oversize shakes
 and a Carmel Stone chimney has
 been randomly arranged around red bricks
which continue into the basement foundation.

The original home built in 1926
 was rectangular in shape 

 centered around the fireplace.

Today this consists of  a living

and dining area. 

The wood-pane oriel window, 

wall niche, window seat,

wall paneling and stained glass are all
original  to the home built 1926. 

In 1928 at a cost of $250, Mr. Bigland added a bedroom and bath, 216 square feet to the west side of his  residence.  This cute little bathroom still has the original colorful ceramic tiles. 

Two years later Frederick Bigland added

 an 8 by 10 foot kitchen off the

 east side of the dining room.

Over the years the kitchen was updated, 

but the ornate stained glass window

is original to Biglands 1930 addition.

Forest Cottage was known as Hermes House during the 1970’s, and more additions were made by various owners, until the current owners took possession in 2010 and embarked on a major remodel which we had the pleasure of enjoying during the Carmel House and Garden Tour.  

I have two favorite places which may not exactly be historical additions, but they certainly add to the current charm of the property.  

Off the basement bonus room

embedded in the foundation

 the Cave a Vins 

  In Carmel, every inch of space is important.

In my opinion, this space was put to good use. 

My second favorite spot, the back yard, where Robert Stowe Shuler has built a charming outdoor Carmel Stone fireplace, bench and wood holder.

Next up “All The Way” a classic American Foursquare or “Prairie Box” home that I have walked by for 40 years but never actually seen past the fence.   

All The Way 

 Casanova the 13th 

There are many homes in Carmel that are completely sheltered from view.  All the Way is one of those homes.  Since the mid-1960’s I have walked past the corner of Casanova and 13th on the way to the beach.  Until two years ago, when the current owners began a total home and garden restoration, the outside fence was covered by bamboo and other thick foliage.  

What was behind this fence all along has a rich history dating back to 1905 when, according to Carmel City Records the first structure an American Foursquare  was erected on this 8,000 square foot lot.  

The undated photo below, courtesy of Harrison Memorial History Library, shows the house from 13th Avenue with (albeit hard to see) exterior wall cladding of wood shingle and medium-pitched hipped roof with hipped roof dormers on the west and south elevation.

The wood single siding is more clearly visible (to the left) in the current photo below of the west elevation taken from behind the fence during the House and Garden Tour.

All the Way is historically significant on the California Register under two criteria, first because the Foursquare style is considered a good example of Carmel’s early residential architecture.  Essentially a pattern book design, a Foursquare home, could actually be ordered from Sears in the early 1900’s, and then shipped via boxcar, all parts pre-cut and numbered for self-assembly, with a book of directions a la Ikea but on a grander scale.

The second reason for its historical significance is because of the contribution of the first two owners of the house, Mary A. Connolly, and the Frederick W. Search family. Little is known about the first owner, Mary A. Connolly, except that she was an active member in the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club and the International Dutch Markets which began in 1905.

Much more is known about the Search family. Frederick W. Search (1853-1932), was a noted educator, amateur musician and author.  Though best known for his books on the public school system, including An Ideal School, The Individual in Mass Education and The Ethics of the Public School, I could not find then on the Internet.

His son, Frederick Preston Search (1889-1959), went beyond amateur musician, beginning at age 10 when he sold poultry in Pueblo, Colorado to earn enough money to purchase his first cello.  By 13, he was touring as a boy prodigy transcontinentally playing his cello.  The next year his parents sent him to study music in Germany, then two years at the New England Conservatory of Music in Boston, four years at the Cincinnati College of Music and five years back in Germany studying under cello instructor Julius Klengel. In 1914, after 12 years of intense classical musical training, Frederick Preston’s family moved to Carmel, where Frederick Preston went on to direct the orchestra at the old Del Monte Hotel from 1920 to 1932.

The first record of the Search family and All the Way shows up when a permit was purchased in 1921 to add a room, shown below, to the northeast corner of the home clad with horizontal shiplap siding.

Kaye Burbank Scott lived in the house for the longest period of time, from the 1950’s till her death in 2010.  It was her son and husband that built some of the other additions and the original garage.  In 1963 the house and zen garden were featured in Sunset Magazine.

In 2011 the current owners beautifully restored this home to its original state with board and batten interior wall finishing and fir floors, in the living room,

entry, 

dining room,

 and first bedroom.

The kitchen, addition to the original Foursquare in 1960, received board and batten walls and fir floor to match.

 Windows were restored

 using the original glass, and 

 one hundred years of paint was removed from the exterior of the fireplace to expose original clinker brick.

A new guest room was

 added to the back of the 1957 garage. 

Crooked split limbs

 from numerous Coastal Live Oaks, 

and one majestic Coastal Redwood

shade the tranquil new garden design by the owner and architect and completed by Roarke Craven of Carven Landscaping.  Beginning at the front entrance join me as I walk the garden path around the perimeter of All the Way.

 

Climbing roses traverse

 the wood shingle

and point to the guest cottage

 through the medal wind sculpture.  

Off the kitchen is a cozy sitting area 

next to a red leaf Japanese maple,  

and a uniquely constructed fireplace 

with river rock found

 scattered around the yard. 

In the northwest corner is a fountain reminiscent of the Zen garden on this property in the 1960’s and

finally, my favorite accent, a tepee constructed of willow branches for the climbing roses.  I might just have to try this myself.

Leaving “All the Way” we are on our way to “Holly Oak Cottage” a few blocks up 13th, on Dolores.  

Holly Oak Cottage 

Dolores between 12th and 13th 

Behind the wooden gate
 with flower box accent,

lies the lovely English style
 garden of Holly Oak Cottage

yet another home built by

 the prolific Michael J.Murphy
this one a Saltbox style. 

Much of  Mr. Murphy’s original 1172 square foot home built of redwood and stucco in 1926 for $5,000 still exists.  Reached by stairs from the living room 

is the original master with an entire wall lined with three pairs of six light French windows facing Point Lobos and what I am sure are spectacular sunsets. 

Off the living room 

is a kitchen remodeled in 1979 by then owner Westley Martinez.

Mr. Martinez also added a second story

 master bath, fireplace, and walk-in closet,

which would be to the right of the French windows. 

In 1998 and 2006 there were more renovations 

and additions to the back of the house,

 such as the covered balcony. 

The garden also received a renovation in 1998 and 2006.
I enjoyed the way it was divided into sections.

One for conversation, 

one for warmth, 

and finally one for solitude. 

The borders are blooming 

and the sheep are grazing. 

My favorite accents at the Holly Oak Cottage and Garden 

are the window boxes

and the original light fixtures

seen on many of Mr. Murphy and Mr. Comstock’s homes. 

Next we are off to our last two properties Hob Nob, thought to be built by Hugh Comstock and Carmel Cottage Inn, five darling historic homes just a few minutes walk to the beach or downtown that may be rented for a weekend or more. I reviewed this property in December last year for the Carmel Inns of Distinction.

House and Garden Tour 2013 Part 1 – First Murphy House, Hugh W. Comstock Residence, A Storybook Cottage

House and Garden Tour 2013 Part 3 – Hob Nob, Carmel Cottage Inn

___

Credits

Black and white photo of Forest Cottage, Kent L. Seavey Preservation Consultant, taken 6/20/2002, provided by Carmel-by-the-Sea city records.

Drawings are from Carmel-by-the-Sea City Hall records

All other photos by L. A. Momboisse http://www.carmelbytheseaca.blogspot.com